Handbrushing acrylics questions/comments

Yes, it's you. You are the only one ever to report such problems…NOT

I find that Polly Scale covers pretty well if you have a very clean surface and lay it on relatively heavily with a brush, just short of dripping and running. It's worst on corners and sharply curved surfaces (like struts). But I don't mind having to put on two or even three coats.

As for the other problem, before you start painting with Tamiya, dip the brush in either
Tamiya thinner or 90% isopropyl alcohol, then dip it in the paint. Each time you load the brush, repeat the dip in the solvent. For all but the first dip in the solvent, all you need is a very light , quick dip. Always paint with a wet edge, and stop each stroke before you think necessary—don't try to draw the paint out too thin. Once the paint is down, leave it. You will generally find that the defect in the coating disappears as it dries and cures.

If defects remain, you must wait until the paint has completely cured to fix them, at least twenty-four hours. 

Acrylics are indeed cantankerous when brush painted.  Aside from Ross's suggestions, priming seems to help.  I brush acrylics infrequently, but I get much better results when going over an enamel painted surface, effectively primed, than when painting bare plastic.

Thanks for the tips folks. I do prime on occasion, and have noticed it certainly improves the flow and adhesion with acrylics. One other question, does anyone notice different results from synthetic or natural brushes with acrylics?  Nylon vs Red Sable for instance?