Has anyone used Rub & Buff

Gigatron wrote:

HawkeyeHobbies wrote:   Just to clarify, you apply the powders while the paint is still tacky, but you wait for it to cure before you buff it? I just want to make sure I have everything straight as I'm about to do an entire P-51 using Talon and SnJ. Thanks, Fred

Fred, this applies to guys who are using Testors gloss white or black with SnJ powder...When using Talon and the powders. You can but doing it after it dries is okay as well. I've done it both ways with the Talon and the results are nearly identical. Letting it cure first eliminates any possible chances of leaving fingerprints in the paint or applying it before it goes from being still 'wet' to slightly tacky.

Just let it dry then rub it it. I use a mechanical advantage...a buffing wheel installed in my Dremel.  

HawkeyeHobbies wrote:

Many of my car modeling customers use the powders over gloss black or white all the time...they seem very pleased and thats what counts the most. Rub n Buff was fine for its day, but I found it to be too labor intensive and difficult to clean up to correct any mistakes of flaws I found as I worked. Thats when I discovered SnJ...twelve or so years later...I bought the company. If you have some powder left from your previous projects, try the gloss black or even over a silver, any of the Testors enamels will work fine. Best time to apply is just before it is totally dry. Remember when the Stooges would powder each others faces with talc using a big fluffy applicator...treat a cloth with powder and do the same...let it sit until the paint cures then you can start to polish it.  If you have any questions just drop me a note.

Just to clarify, you apply the powders while the paint is still tacky, but you wait for it to cure before you buff it?

I just want to make sure I have everything straight as I'm about to do an entire P-51 using Talon and SnJ.

Thanks,

Fred

Thank you Gerald! 

Your comments are awesome!  I guess I'll try the Rub-n-buff later when I've got a small "hack" model to try it on.

In the mean time, you said the SnJ powder worked best before the paint was completely dry.  It's been about five days since I painted my Scorpion glass black and it'll be at least another three days before I can get to it again.  Is it too late for the powder?

Also, do you have a store in Neenah?  I live in Green Bay just up the road from you!

Thanks again!

Eric

Many of my car modeling customers use the powders over gloss black or white all the time...they seem very pleased and thats what counts the most.

Rub n Buff was fine for its day, but I found it to be too labor intensive and difficult to clean up to correct any mistakes of flaws I found as I worked. Thats when I discovered SnJ...twelve or so years later...I bought the company.

If you have some powder left from your previous projects, try the gloss black or even over a silver, any of the Testors enamels will work fine. Best time to apply is just before it is totally dry. Remember when the Stooges would powder each others faces with talc using a big fluffy applicator...treat a cloth with powder and do the same...let it sit until the paint cures then you can start to polish it. 

If you have any questions just drop me a note. 

Gerald,

Thanks for writing.  Yes I've used SnJ before and with pretty good results.  However, I was cleaning off my pig sty of a workbench when I found a tube of Rub-n-buff underneath all the rubble.  I forgot I bought the thing a while ago!  LOL!

Here's the quandry:  I painted my F-89 with a base coat of Model Master Gloss Black.  The nose and the tail are going to remain gloss black while the rest will be natural metal.  I was going to use Alclad but I seem to be batting .500 with that product.  I thought of using SnJ powder but I wasn't sure how it would look over a black base coat.  I've used it over white but never black.  So then I found the tube of RnB and I was wonderinig how well that would work out.

If you could shed some light on your experiences then that would be great.  I might not use it on this model but perhaps another one in the near future.  Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Eric