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Masking Techniques and tricks

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  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Hamilton, Ontario
Masking Techniques and tricks
Posted by Poppie on Monday, February 11, 2008 9:17 AM

fI've searched the forums (somewhat cursory, I'll admit) but have been unable to find an article on basic masking techniques other than to use a hobby knife, cut carefully, lift off and burnish. I know that's probably it in a nutshell, but I know from experience that there's a heck of a lot more to it than just slapping on some masking tape and spraying away.  I'd love to find an 'in depth' article that deals with bleeds, lifting, masking off angles, masking irregular patterns around fuselage and body.   It sometimes seems that squadrons were given x cans of paint and told to come up with their own schemes "in a pattern sort of what 'George's' boys have.

I've bought or inherited Some Tamaya 1", 1/2", 14":

full roles of 3M Blue - 1" and 2" Blue which says, on the wrapper its good for 'irregularar applications, up to 60 days, 

I also dug up Painters Mate Green 1" and 2" which both say they are good for 8 day low tach applications.

There are a couple of roles of EdgePro tm (cantech) 1", and 2 "

Then there are roles of 1/4 " tape, coloured yellow, red, green, blue -

green is least tacky

yellow is least after that

blue and red - I can't tell the difference

*they all have a code '15BLU14', 'FP15RED', 'FP15YEL14, 'FP15GRN14', marked on them.

Anyone know of a Into to Modeling Book that has some intro to cutting your own stencils.

"This is a gentle place if I but make it so." Poppie
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Monday, February 11, 2008 11:33 AM

Hey poppie,

For really oddball curves and shapes, you want really thin tape as it curves without kinking.  Look for Tamiya 1/8" for compound curves.  Once you've masked off the outline, you can use wider tape to fill in the rest.

After you've masked the area off, use a burnishing tool/toothpick/slightly rounded wooden dowel and really burninh down the edges.  Then use a brush to apply some future around the edges of the mask.  After painting, use a sharp #11 to go around the edges and then use a toothpick to lift up the mask.

This technique will work for canopies as well as camo paint jobs (though with canopies, you can just use 1/2" wide tape).

Hope that helps a little.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Hamilton, Ontario
Posted by Poppie on Monday, February 11, 2008 4:28 PM
 Gigatron wrote:

Hey poppie,

For really oddball curves and shapes, you want really thin tape as it curves without kinking.  Look for Tamiya 1/8" for compound curves.  Once you've masked off the outline, you can use wider tape to fill in the rest.

After you've masked the area off, use a burnishing tool/toothpick/slightly rounded wooden dowel and really burninh down the edges.  Then use a brush to apply some future around the edges of the mask.  After painting, use a sharp #11 to go around the edges and then use a toothpick to lift up the mask.

This technique will work for canopies as well as camo paint jobs (though with canopies, you can just use 1/2" wide tape).

Hope that helps a little.

-Fred

That bit of advice is being transferred into my cherished "Modeling How-To" Book.

Seriously guys, I've been reading all the past posts and started making short notes about things that stood out.  I've deceided to write an actual "Forum Modeling How-To" Book, using all the tips and techniques that you guys have shared or passed on here in this forum.  This place is a gold mine for new modelers like myself.There are a lot of small books for the beginner, or advanced, or articles on specific topics, but no comprehensive, 'Bible' type book.  I've started chapters from 'Opening the box' and 'Getting Started' and am continually adding new stuff as I come across it and learn new skills.  I figure in a year or two I might just have something really worth while.  I've written a few college texts books in the past so this is a really refreshing, 'write-as-you-learn- project'. I've never tried anything like this before.  I hoping nobody has any objections re: copyright, etc. as this is a public forum, and all info posted is for general use.  If anyone objects, they can let me know and I'll desist, but, all in all, I think this just might be a really worthwhile project as well as a fun hobby.  I hope its something everyone will contiribute to and get something out of in the end.  I'll be heading my posts that I definitely need answers for or that are just plain interesting, or, that I'm at a writers impasse at with the heading "Poppies Book:"/.  Anybody have any suggestions, objections, directions, warnings, etc?????????? 

 

"This is a gentle place if I but make it so." Poppie
  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by namrednef on Monday, February 11, 2008 4:49 PM

I think that is a fabulous idea Poppie!

When I joined here a short time ago, I began by 'bookmarking' each valuable lesson I came across. They added up way too fast! So I've been editing certain posts and saving them in a file (which by now needs to be subdivided and categorized)

I would love to tackle an idea like yours.....but I am so far behind in my building simply trying to get as prepared for this hobby as I want to be!

You would be doing a great service, sir! 

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: galt, ca.
Posted by dirtball on Monday, February 11, 2008 6:23 PM
  I say...GO FOR IT!! Sounds like a great idea...........
"I once shot an elephant in my pajamas. How he got in my pajamas, I`ll never know!"
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 9:18 AM

Poppie, please feel free to use anything I've ever posted, if you find it of use.  I think the book is a great idea.

While there are other books out there that do something similar, I've yet to see one book do  indepth coverage of all the important factors that go into model building.  I hate having to buy multiple books for each useful topic.  I'd rather have one 12" thick book than a dozen smaller books.

I think a book should cover everything from the absolute basics, for those that just want to build a kit straight OOB, to advanced techinques like using PE and resin AM parts.  You'll need before, WIP and after pictures for all the techniques.  One of my biggest gripes with most books/articles is that they only show before and after and the explanations of how to get from point A to point B are vague, at best.  I think you should get in contact with Chukw as he has dome some incredible WIP work on his helldiver.

Good luck with the book, poppie.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Glue and paint smeared bench, in La La Land
Posted by dahut on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 10:13 AM

Ive got the older "How to Build Plastic Aircraft Models," and I doubt theres a better, more comprehensive book around. You can find them on alibris.com for $3-3.50, right now.

As for masking there are only two things you really need and one or two "nice to haves":

ESSENTIALS - Low tack tape and rubber cement/ Maskoid.

I use blue tape and I rub it on my pant leg prior to use. This breaks the adhesive and makes it less aggressive. I use the one inch stuff and just CUT the thinner strips I need for edging with a razor blade on glass.

Rubber cement or Maskoid is used to fill in the framed areas on canopies and other small areas. But you must thin it, first. you can buy thinners for it, but they are really just hexane. The best place to get that is in a Coleman camp fuel can... $6/GALLON at Walmart!

To use it, you frame an area with tape strips then fill it with thinned R-C, using a brush. Works good, lasts a long time.

Maskoid: this is latex rubber, dissolved in an alcohol/acrylic base. If you dont like R-C and hexane this is for you. It's used by airbrush and watercolor artists to mask on paper and can be found in art stores. It is used the same as R-C, but is costly and doesnt last too long in the jar.

TIP: R-C and Maskoid make great chipped paint masks. Paint the area silver first. Then, with thin R-C or Maskoid, dab at the silver with a fine brush in the pattern you want. Let eh mask cure for a few hours and then over paint with your color coats. When the color coat has cured, gently rub off the R-C or Maskoid and voila! - a nice, chipped paint simulation

NICE TO HAVES - Sticky tack adhesive and Parafilm M

The first ones above are old school - this is newer. Sticky Tack is that adhesive used to hang posters and stuff on walls. It's a dough-like putty and goes by a lot of names and it is removable - low tack, in other words. You can use it in snake-like strips to edge large areas and then use the rubber cement to adhere area masks to it, cut from paper. This gives you a nice feather edge and works good on masked airframe jobs, armor and other large area masking tasks.

TIP: Use rolled masking tape as edge adhesive for paper masks. This gives s feathered edge, the tightness of which is controlled by how thickly the tape is rolled. Sticky Tack also is useful for this, if rolled out thinly and evenly and then cut into little adhesive bits for the paper mask. Just place the sticky bits of tape or S-T on the model, about 1/16-1/8" back from the paper's edge.

Parafilm M is a cover film used in laboratories. It sticks, like kitchen plastic wrap, to most anything when you stretch it out. It has almost endless uses and you only need to experiment with it a little to see what I mean. The challenge with it is GETTING some. It's costly and is uncommon except in labs, where it's used to cover open containers. If you can get some, it lasts forever and will prove invaluable.

 

 

 

Cheers, David
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