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First time air brusher

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  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Adelaide, South Australia
Posted by somenewguy on Sunday, March 2, 2008 11:50 PM

Yesterday morning I was in the same position as you, then I picked up a Paasche VL double action from my LHS for $195AUD. I did my homework of course. I'm assuming that you're in America so that would make it 'round 'bout 160-$165 for you. Remember that the airbrush is only the tip of the iceburg. It's the main part but there are other absolute essentials i.e compressor/accessories, primer, ventilation, solvents etc.

Good luck. 

At the end of the day one's work may be completed but one's education never!
  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: Quincy,MA
Posted by GeorgeF on Sunday, March 2, 2008 11:33 PM

Scott,

I also am into Model Railroading. I have used a Wren (similar to Badger 350) single action siphon feed external mix with good results. Currently I have a badger 200 and have used that with no problems. I use Model Flex paint and the siphon feed adapter for badger paint fits right on the bottle, no pouring into another means of paint conveyance, i.e. gravity cup or special bottle for the paint. I have used the paint straight from the bottle without a problem except cleaning the AB.

George

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tacoma WA
Posted by gjek on Thursday, February 28, 2008 6:37 PM
I use CO2.  To get CO2 just go to whever they sell gasses such as Praxair. Look in the phone book under gas in the yellow pages. You will need a pressure regulator rated for 1000 lbs or higher. Mine is rated for nitrogen at 3000 lbs and CO2 is only 800lbs. For tank size, a 20 lbs tank is about right for me (SCUBA tank size). A refill was about $14 last time I filled mine. I have done 5 kits with plenty left. I bought my tank at an auction so I just swap tanks with them when I refill. Tank rental or deposit I sure would be required if you didn't own your own.
Msgt USMC Ret M48, M60A1, M1A1
  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Georgia
Posted by RTimmer on Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:24 PM

Hi,

I've seen frequently in this forum reference to using a tank of CO2.  A couple of questions from the reference point of the US,

1.  Although I've ordered and used CO2 in a laboratory setting, what is involved (if anything) for an individual obtaining CO2 tanks?

2.  What is required in addition to the tank, and is this purchased or rented from the provider of the CO2 tank?

3.  What is the cost involved, and how much usage (ballpark) can be obtained from a large cylinder (those that are about 4-5 ft high)?

Thanks, Rick

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:33 PM

CO2, you won't regret it.

 

E

  • Member since
    February 2008
Posted by smokin on Wednesday, February 27, 2008 7:46 PM

Thanks for your time. I think I have narrowed it down to a couple of choices. What about a compressor? Just when I think I'm close, more questions. Any thoughts?

Once again

Thank You

Scott

  • Member since
    February 2008
Posted by USMC2USAF on Monday, February 18, 2008 12:50 PM
Bgrigg:

Thanks for the great information!
I am a new forum member and this is my first post.
I too am a completely new airbrusher and am looking to purchase my first airbrush and compressor in the very near future. Any advice on air compressors and spray booths?

I have always been somewhat intimidated by airbrushing in general and am eagerly looking forward to taking on the challenge!

I'm planning on using the airbrush on 15mm and 28mm historical WWII and fantasy/sci-fi miniatures for wargames.

Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Respectfully,
KEVIN


  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Wingman_kz on Sunday, February 17, 2008 3:48 AM

Here's another vote for the Badger 360.

I'll admit, I'd love to try a high end Iwata. I really would. Just can't afford it. With the Pre-set handle you could use it as a single or double action without disabling double action and have the best of both worlds. Being able to fine tune the air with a MAC valve might come in handy, don't know. You don't have to buy one with the MAC valve or one of the most expensive brushes to get a Pre-set handle.

But for the cost of a Badger 360U, I'm happy. I really like being able to use it as a straight gravity feed or with a bottle. I've had it almost 5 years and used it a LOT and haven't worn the bushing in the rotating head yet. Granted, the cup is small, but it's been perfect for my useage. When I'm shooting a body or chassis, it's on the bottle. When doing a bunch of small parts, detailing and shooting Alclad, I use the cup. All through one brush. Yes I know, you can use a cup with a siphon feed or a bottle with a side feed, neither is quite the same.

Tony

            

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Sunday, February 17, 2008 1:25 AM
 Wrinkledm wrote:

My only complaint about the anthem 155 is cleaning the cup and the hole it connects too. It makes me not want to paint.  Watching Swannys models DVD it seem like cleaning the gravity feed model is much easier. 

Cleaning a siphon feed airbrush isn't much more work than a gravity feed, learn to enjoy cleaning it or you won't like airbrushing for long. And don't take it apart every time to clean the airbrush, that is a mistake people make and the main reason for problems.  

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Beavercreek, Ohio
Posted by Wrinkledm on Saturday, February 16, 2008 7:03 PM

Greetings... 

I too am a beginner, and I started with a simple Paasche H3 model that I picked up (new) cheap on ebay.  After an hour of trying to balance the air pressure and adjust the tip, I was close to throwing the whole mess at a passing steam roller.  The brush had been purchased a few years ago for another project that I never persued.

  My next task was to read through the forums and weight all the data before launching myself at ebay one more time. This time it was a new Badger Anthem 155.  $45 on Ebay.  I also picked up a couple of 5 - 30 psi regulators for the grand sum of $9. (Yea, yea Ebay.) Now, armed with the Anthem 155 double action brush I sat down and had another go. What a massive difference the single vs double made for me. (KEY WORDS... "FOR ME") I'm really getting into the brushing and I'm not having too much difficulty producing 1/8" lines. Next I read the post on the Badger Garage sale so I picked up a 360 for $24 plus shipping. The 360 is an anthem 155 with a gravity feed cup.  My only complaint about the anthem 155 is cleaning the cup and the hole it connects too. It makes me not want to paint.  Watching Swannys models DVD it seem like cleaning the gravity feed model is much easier.  I'm sure, like me, that you'll find posts both for and against both brushes. I'm not too concerned if I have to fill the 360 cup more than once while painting. The ease of cleanup will be well worth it!

 I'm sure there are folks who can make a single action brush sing, but it wasn't me. I'll probably keep the Paasch for spraying future or something.   Now I'm looking at paint booths, I thought this was a cheap hobby?

 D 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, February 16, 2008 9:51 AM

Scott,

The differences between brands and styles can be confusing. I hope this lengthy tome will help your decision making.

This is truly a "Golden Age" of airbrushing. There are more brands and styles than you can shake a stick at, and as long as you stick to a "brand" name, you can hardly go wrong.

The big names are (in no particular order): Badger, Paasche, Iwata, Aztek, Peak, Sparmax, DeVilbiss, EFBE, RichPen, PrecisionAire and Thayer & Chandler.

There are two types of airbrushes: Single Action and Dual Action:

Single actions are considered by many to be easier to use. You set the needle and press the trigger to spray. To resize the area of spray you have to reset the needle. The drawback is you need lots of experience to adjust the needle to the correct pattern and should always test on a piece of scrap before attempting to paint your model. 

Dual actions take a bit of a technique to use properly and so have a steeper learning curve. However the payoff is much greater control. The trigger controls both the needle position and the air. Press down for the air and move the trigger back to set the needle. All the way back is a wide spray pattern, and barely back is a narrow spray pattern, and so on. It's a bit like using your thumb to control the spray on a garden hose. Dual action also allows you to stop feeding paint and only spray air, which can help in drying paint or blowing off the inevitable dust molecule or hair (darn cat!).

Probably more important than the action is the method of paint atomization. Again there are two kinds: External and Internal mix:

External mix is the simplest form of airbrush and atomizes the paint outside the airbrush body. No paint every goes inside the airbrush. The Paasche H or the Badger 350 (not 360!) are examples of the external mix airbrush. They are easy to clean, but are limited to a wider pattern of spray. I use a Badger 350 clone for flood coating Future gloss or dull coats.

Internal mix atomizes the paint inside the body and tends to do a better job of atomization. The Badger 100 series or any Iwata are examples of this kind of airbrush. Internal mix airbrushes require a more thorough cleaning, but the results are often much better.

There are also two kinds of paint feed: Siphon and Gravity:

Siphon or bottom feed uses a siphon action to "pull" the paint up from a color cup or bottle, similar to using a drinking straw. It requires a (slightly) higher air pressure in order to work.

Gravity feed have a color cup mounted on top of the airbrush and can use less air pressure since it doesn't have to pull the paint to the airbrush. Less air pressure usually means finer line control, though the needle taper is also important.

There are also "hybrid" feed airbrushes such as the Badger 360 which uses a rotating cup mount. There are also Side fed airbrushes where the color cup mounts to the side. Since the bulk of the paint source is higher than the airbrush it works like a gravity feed brush. One distinct advantage of a side feed is the ability to rotate the cup and use the airbrush vertically.  

The actual differences between the two are slight. Gravity feed have fairly small paint sources, as opposed to the siphon feed which are available with a 3 oz bottle. I have both, and use the gravity feed when I only need a small amount of paint or require a bit more control, and use the siphon when I need to lay down large amounts of paint.

The scale you work in will dictate the kind of airbrush more than anything. If you build HO either kind will suffice, but if you are a N scale modeler, than a gravity feed would probably be easier to use. The top mounted cup allows you to get in closer to smaller areas, where the bottom hanging cup or bottle of a siphon can interfere.

I have a collection of brushes which I use as my need dictates. They are all Badger airbrushes, as most share parts. There is nothing more frustrating than to have to put your hobby on hold while you wait for a new part to come! They include:

  • Badger 100LG, gravity feed large top mounted color cup dual action ~$75.
  • Badger 150, siphon feed dual action ~$65.
  • Badger 200-20, siphon feed single action with fine needle control (considered a detail brush) ~$40.
  • Thayer & Chandler Omni 4000, gravity feed large top mounted color cup dual action ~$80. Very similar to the 100LG, it has some additional features such as cut out handle to adjust the needle "on the fly" or to pull back to remove paint clogs from the tip, and reversible spray regulator which allow me to get right up close with the tip for additional control. T&C are built by Badger.
  • Badger 350 clone, bought for less then $10, it's considered a disposable airbrush used exclusively for gloss and dull coats.

Other consideration is point of manufacture. Badger, Paasche and DeVilbiss are all made in the USA, EFBE in Germany and the rest are made in Asia. Prices can be as low as $40, or as high as $400. Prices quoted above are online prices from Dixie Art or Bear Air, both very reputable places to buy airbrushes and accessories.

Regards,

Bill 

 

So long folks!

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Staten Island, New York
Posted by kenny_conklin on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 10:18 PM

first off scott welcome tothe boards.

as for the airbrush it is really prefernce i think as to what airbrush you use. i use a badger 175 crecsendo. it is double action which i like cause i can control the amount of paint coming out with the control handle instead of adjusting the needle.

i do have a passche H single action which i use for doing large areas of work.

i am sure you will get lots of responses on what people like in a airbrush and what they use them for.

 

"Rakkasans Lead the Way!"
  • Member since
    February 2008
First time air brusher
Posted by smokin on Wednesday, February 13, 2008 9:23 PM

What should I be looking for? Should I get single-action  or double-action? Is there a brand of products you prefer? I'm into model railroading.

Thank you for your time

Scott

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