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newbie alert! Model Master Acryl H2O based flats Questions....

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  • Member since
    January 2008
newbie alert! Model Master Acryl H2O based flats Questions....
Posted by Adamlee on Sunday, February 17, 2008 2:53 PM

I am not EVEN going to pretend to be knowledgable on this issue: The setup here is, I am an old geezer getting back into scale modeling after an approximate 25 year absence - Zzz [zzz] - really!

Here's my thing: in the way way back, when I modeled nothing but Tamiya 1:35 armor and soldiers, I was a "humbrol" and "hella" and "tamiya" paints kinda guy. Man, those paints flowed and brushstrokes just disappeared immediately! I was so hooked on those flat enamel paints, I hardly ever used my old Paasche airbrush!

Well here I am, building this dragon 1:35 Tiger II, and oh my god - after a perfect spray coat of primer, using Games Workshop "skull white" (since I wanted to base coat panzer yellow versus a darker tone  - at least, this was my reasoning for using flat skull white primer) - I attempted a brush coat of Model Masters water-based flat Acryl, specifically; panzer dunkelgelb 1943.

Let me say this: whiskey tango foxtrot!?!

Now that I've basically consigned the hull deck and engine cover to a butt-ugly initial coat of yellow, am I going to have any luck with a second coat helping the brush strokes disappear?

I am already going to move on and forget these H2o-based paints with this experience, and I'd really like to get the best recommendations for the old-school flat enamels of yesteryear that I remember.

Can those old flat humbrol tins be found here in northern VA, or by internet?

Thanks, veteran modelers!

Old guy poser modeler.....

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Tacoma WA
Posted by gjek on Monday, February 18, 2008 12:54 AM
As an older modeler I feel your pain. Sounds like it is time to remove the ugly paint job and try again. Acrylics are easier to remove than enamels. A can of easy off oven cleaner is the favored trick. It leaves the plastic and removes the paint. coat the model, put it in a ziplock bag for a little while and then clean up the old paint. Acrylics come off easier than enamels. Some have good luck hand brushing but I don't. I would airbrush and leave the hand brushing for small detail parts. Tamiya, Polly Scale, and Modelmaster are OK just use their thinner until you get back into the swing of things. I think Tamiya and Modelmaster come ready to spray out of the bottle but I thin them a little. I like acrylics a lot more. Oder is less and cleanup is with windex. Enamels are still going strong. Humbrol is alive and kicking and Model master also makes enamels. Check Great Models web site.
Msgt USMC Ret M48, M60A1, M1A1
  • Member since
    January 2008
Posted by Adamlee on Monday, February 18, 2008 8:09 AM

Thanks, gjek - I needed the boost - I had hoped to avoid getting a new spray rig for a little while, I really wanted to - but I think for the purposes of this model, I'm going to get a rattle can of Tamiya yellow and go that route.

Thanks for the ideas! I might PM or email you off-line for some other embarrasingly newbie questions.

Adam

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Monday, February 18, 2008 10:46 AM

Make sure you understand that Tamiya Spray cans are lacquer based not acrylic.  Tamiya's Acrylic paint does need to be thinned for airbrushing but Model Master Acryl is designed to be sprayed directly from the bottle.  At least that's what the manufactor says.  As for me, I airbrush acrylics and hand paint enamels. 

Jesse

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