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Is there an acrylic paint remover?

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Is there an acrylic paint remover?
Posted by dariencharlie on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:35 AM
I am helping a young modeler finish a model which he started.  There is red acrylic paint over white plastic, where it does not belong; areas that need to be painted white actually.  It would be a lot of surface to scrape off.

Is there an acrylic remover?  Brush it on, wait, wipe it off?!
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:07 AM
Depending on the brand of acrylic paint used, Windex, Isopropyl or denatured alcohol or oven cleaner will remove it. All of the above will work on Tamiya and Gunze acrylics.
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Southeast Louisiana
Posted by Wulf on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:19 AM

Model Master makes a dried paint solvent that will remove acrylics. I use it as a brush cleaner as well.

Andy

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 8:14 AM

Windex with amonia.

depending on how long it's been on there, you may need to let it soak for an hour.  Put the windex in a bowl, put the part in the bowl, let it sit and then wipe it off.  It'll be good as new.

If it's not that old, you can just keep spraying and wiping with the windex as well.

Fresh paint will come off immediately.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 8:49 AM
In addition to those already mentioned, Simple Green. Also works in combination with many of the above.

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 9:03 AM

All of the above and my personal favorite, Castrol Super Clean for the heavy duty stripping of an entire car body, fuselage, etc.  Put the part(s) in a sealable plastic bag, add Super Clean to cover the parts and wait a day.  Then use an old toothbrush to remove any stubborn paint. 

edit-Always wear plastic latex/rubber gloves when using Super Clean-will dry your hands out very quickly.

Bob

 

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Humble
Posted by rrmmodeler on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 11:18 AM

All the above will work as already stated. I use Windex with amonia. I once had a canopy that I wanted to repaint but it had been painted and futured almost two years earlier. I dropped it in a cup of windex and let it sit over night. The next day I had a clean canopy ready for repainting and futuring.

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 11:28 AM

I'll add another one to the list:  automotive brake fluid.

An excellent container for the purpose is an aluminum foil cooking pan - the kind that are sold in packages of three or four, in various sizes, at the grocery.  Put it in the kitchen sink, fill it to the necessary depth with brake fluid, and submerge the part.  Within ten or fifteen minutes, the paint will start lifting off.  Rinse it off under the faucet; that probably will take off any paint that's left.  If not, go to work on it with an old toothbrush. 

Brake fluid containers carry various safety warnings.  I haven't gotten any burns or other skin reactions from it, but it will take paint off anything it hits.  (That's why mechanics - if they're competent - always put rubber mats on the fenders of cars when adding brake fluid.)  I don't know whether it's any more dangerous than any of the other substances mentioned already; all I know is that I've always had good luck with it.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 12:24 PM
 bobbaily wrote:

All of the above and my personal favorite, Castrol Super Clean for the heavy duty stripping of an entire car body, fuselage, etc.  Put the part(s) in a sealable plastic bag, add Super Clean to cover the parts and wait a day.  Then use an old toothbrush to remove any stubborn paint. 

Always wear plastic gloves when using Super Clean-will dry your hands out very quickly.

I second that although it no longer has the "Castrol" name on the bottle it is just "Super Clean" now. It does contain Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) and that is why you need to keep it off your skin.

That is the same ingredient in Easy-Off oven cleaner and Liquid Plumber drain cleaner BTW.  

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: USA
Posted by dariencharlie on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:09 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions.  Brake fluid, eh?  Wow!

Without trying to explin in too much detail, unfortunately I don't have the luxury of soaking the part.   Am talking about the upper 1/4" or so of the sides, of the model of the Titanic.  But I can try laying it on its side and letting a remover lay on an area at a time, keeping it off the rest of the exterir which we have already proceeded to work on, the black upper and red lower. (air burshed red over the lower part, over the read already put there by the young man, to try to even out its look). 

Or was that in detail anyway...

Thanks again. 

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:29 PM
In that case, Windex and a cotton swab or carefully used paper towel.

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

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