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Ideal temperature for curing airbrushed painted items

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  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: MA
Posted by avadon on Saturday, March 22, 2008 3:27 PM

EXCELLENT!! Thank you Triarius, I owe you one :D

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Saturday, March 22, 2008 2:58 PM

To keep the temperature from rising too high, and to allow solvent vapors to escape. Paints continue to release solvent until fully cured, and some (particularly if heavy coats have been applied) will continue to do so for a time after full cure. Venting will also prevent hot spots from  forming inside the box.

Cutting a number of small vent holes in sides at the top and bottom of the box will do it.

Also, allow the model to cool to room temperature before you handle it too much. Warm paint is soft paint. 

 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: MA
Posted by avadon on Saturday, March 22, 2008 1:25 PM
Okay, sounds good. But why do I need air-circulation in the box? Does that do something with curing?  and i'm racking my brain how I would do this now without drastically dropping the temperature. It's only being warmed up by a light bulb.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Saturday, March 22, 2008 1:20 PM

Mind you: that's with air circulation in the box!

"Tack-free" means when the surface of the paint is no longer sticky—you can touch it with a finger tip and the surface may deform, but it will not stick to your skin. A good way to test for this is to spray the last bit on a piece of scrap. When that is tack-free, so is your model. 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: MA
Posted by avadon on Saturday, March 22, 2008 1:15 PM

oh wow I thought 100dgsF would be way over kill. So you mean I can't just shoot the paint and then wait a few mins before I put it in the drying box? How long does one have to wait before they can kick up the curing to 80-100dgsf ?

 

Thanks

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Saturday, March 22, 2008 1:12 PM

I assume that's 100° F, not C?

With good air circulation, 100 to 120° F is fine. IIRC, styrene softens aroung 212°, but paint can be adversely affected at much over 150°.

Remember to wait until the paint is tack-free before starting forced curing. 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: MA
Ideal temperature for curing airbrushed painted items
Posted by avadon on Saturday, March 22, 2008 12:54 PM

Hi everyone,

I work in a shop that is usually low to mid 60's in the winter and it takes paint forever to cure. So i've built a fairly good drying/curing box out of 1" pink rigid insulation. Now i'm just trying to find the right light bulb to use in it to create the right temperature. Right now it's soaring up to 100dgs, so that I assume would prolly crack the paint and not cure it. What woudl be the ideal temperature to cure those little model master enamel paints when they are painted on model airplanes and resin anime figures and such. Should I be shooting for 80dgs? Also do I need air circulation in there? it seems fairly dry. Any ideas or help would be great.

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