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Paint proceedure questions

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  • Member since
    March 2008
Paint proceedure questions
Posted by deedude on Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:17 PM

Hello everybody, this is my first post on this forum, though I've been lurking for quite some time.  I'm not entirely sure if this is the correct forum for this post, however.

I'm primairly intrested in ship modeling, with plans to extend into other areas at some point in the future.   I've completed a few models (most recent was a 1/800 Nimitz) and while my painting has improved greatly since my first elementary attempts, I'd like it to turn out better. My problems are mostly related to masking and decal application.

Does this sound like a good procedure (allowing ample draying/curing time between steps):

Assemble logical areas (i.e deck, superstructure, hull)

Prime

Paint base color on each area(i.e large areas of gray for battleships, tan/black for decks, etc)

Paint large details on each area (like large stripes, hull red for below the waterline) 

Assemble areas (glue the deck onto the hull, superstructure on the deck)

Fix seams and touch up

Paint fine details 

Hit with future (to make a smooth base for the decals to stick to)

Apply decals

Hit with more future (to seal decals)

Apply dullcoat for flat finish. 

This may sound simplistic, bu I've had severe problems with decals (they don't stay stuck to a flat finish) and my paints aren't flat enough for my tastes. I'm also wondering if it is better to paint logical areas seperately and then assemble or assemble completely and then paint.  I'm leaning to paint-before-assemble simply because I don't have the steadiest hand in the world and mistakes are easier to fix on an unassembled or semi-assembled model.  If it makes any difference, i'm using plain testor's paint with a dirt cheap airbrush for large areas and brushes for the fine work.

I look forward to your feedback! 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Southeast Louisiana
Posted by Wulf on Friday, March 28, 2008 10:04 PM

First, welcome aboard. Hope you enjoy it here....Smile [:)]

 Some people paint seperate assemblies and sub assemblies, but it's nice to have as much glued and finished before you paint.I can understand wanting to paint seperate components when ship building . So, I think your steps listed are a very good approach. I would recommend upgrading your paint though. Maybe consider Model Master enamels (made by testors). IMHO, the old square Testors paints are a little dated. Plus, Model Master offers many more colors than the old Testors line and the flat colors are nice and flat.

Be sure to allow plenty of time for the paint to cure before masking and decaling. Curing may take up to a week. If you can still smell fumes on the model, it's not cured yet. Mask with a low tack tape.

Get some setting solution for the decals. This will help the adhesion and settle the decals. Let them dry for 24 hours before coating with future. 

Hope this helps....

Andy 

 

  • Member since
    March 2008
Posted by deedude on Sunday, March 30, 2008 5:52 PM

Thanks a million for the feedback! 

This may be enroaching on the decalling forum, but I've heard quite a bit about MicroSet and MicroSol -- What exactally do those two do?

Insomuch as paints go, I've heard good things about Taiyma acrylics, and I believe I'll try those for my next project.  I live in a hole in the world (Rural North Carolina) so hobby stores are difficult to come by.  I can't get anything locally unless it can be purchaced at Wal-Mart or an hour long drive.  Regardless, I still haven't decided weather I want to take the Acrylic or Enamel route.  It is my understanding that Acrylics are less toxic and easier to clean up, at the tradeoff of being more difficult to work with.  

Sorry for the ramble =)  and any further advice would be appriciated.  Perhaps a link to a good FAQ?

 

Thanks agian. 

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