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Need Advice On Time Between Coats When Airbrushing Tamiya Acrylics

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  • Member since
    April 2008
Need Advice On Time Between Coats When Airbrushing Tamiya Acrylics
Posted by Kizzy on Monday, April 28, 2008 7:30 AM
Hello,

I am relatively new to airbrushing and have a few questions regarding the amount of time needed between coats using Tamiya acrylics. I am using a Paasche H single action external mix airbrush. The type of painting that I'm doing is just basic single-color coverage for the various model parts, (i.e. no fancy graphics or designs). I plan to start by airbrushing each part or subassembly with a mist coat to provide a "tooth" for the future coats. Then apply a series of light coats until I've achieved good coverage.

Ok, so my questions are:

1) How much time should I allow between each of these coats, before applying the next? Is it sufficient to wait until the paint is dry to the touch, or longer? With Tamiya acrylics, how many minutes does this usually take?

2) How do I keep the paint from drying in the color cup and/or the airbrush nozzle/tip while I'm waiting to apply the next coat? From other posts I've read, it seems the basic process would be to remove the color cup and cover it in plastic to keep the paint from drying, while also spraying some thinner (or isopropyl alcohol, or possibly water?) through the brush to keep the nozzle/tip from clogging. Is this the best method? Or is it ideal to actually remove the nozzle/tip and fully clean it between coats?

Your help is appreciated!

-Alan

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Monday, April 28, 2008 10:30 AM
  1. Dry to touch for several mist coats. Increase the wait time as you build up a coat, e.g., wait a few minutes once you have nearly complete coverage. For flats, when it looks "dry" you can recoat. Glosses tend to need more time.
  2. I just put a plastic cover over the top of the cup, and put the nose cap on the airbrush with a small bit of paper or cotton in it, and a few drops of 90% isopropyl alcohol on the paper or cotton.


It really helps to use an acrylic retarder with Tamiya (or any acrylic). This will slow drying times and delay the start of curing slightly. That means you have to wait a little longer between coats.

Be sure to apply the paint to a CLEAN surface.

Use Windex with ammonia to clean up. 

Practice, practice, practice! 

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Kizzy on Monday, April 28, 2008 1:53 PM
Triarius,

Thanks for the reply. Understood.

One more question -- when you say 90% isopropyl alcohol, do you mean a 90/10 mixture with water?

Also, the thinner I'm using (Tamiya X-20) supposedly has an acrylic retarder in it, so I should be good to go in that department.

-Alan
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Monday, April 28, 2008 2:21 PM

90% Isopropyl Alcohol is a pre-mixed bottle you buy. Rubbing Alcohol is 70%, and if you're lucky you might be able to find 99%. It's mixed with "something" which is why you should try to find the purest possible.

Since you are using Tamiya brand thinner, you shouldn't need the retarder, but I will point out that having a retarder doesn't prevent the dreaded "tip dry" it merely slows it down. I keep a Q-tip and a small bottle of Windex around to swab out the tip (withdrawing the needle!) when the paint gets built up.

And don't forget to practice! Smile [:)]

So long folks!

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Kizzy on Monday, April 28, 2008 2:37 PM
Indeed, the bottle of rubbing alcohol I have is 70& isopropyl. Can I use Windex as an alternative for blot drying the airbrush tip with a Q-Tip? Would there be any noticeable difference made in the paint due to the blue coloring in the Windex?

One other thought on this subject -- Since my airbrush is single action, would twisting the tip closed (by running the needle forward) all the way help prevent tip drying?

Also regarding practice -- what is a good source of scrap styrene to practice on? Should I buy a cheap model kit to use as a test dummy? Or is it possible to just buy scrap at the hobby store? I presume the same stuff is available in parts for use in scratch building?
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Monday, April 28, 2008 4:00 PM

Thanks Bill!


Kizzy, I don't recommend using Windex as a solvent except for cleaning. It will do fine on a cotton swab to clean the tip of your airbrush. Running the needle all the way out will just get the needle quite tightly glued in the closed position. Also, see my suggestion about a bit of cotton with a few drops of isopropyl or Windex placed in the protective cap for the airbrush. With my Paasche H, this prevented tip dry pretty well.

 

Some 70% isopropyl will work as a reducing solvent for airbrushing, but you never know what might be in the other 30%. Isopropyl is generally shipped as 90+ percent, then diluted locally to 70% with tap water. Where I live, there's stuff in the tap water that is decidedly bad for acrylic paints. Since most people don't know what will have an adverse effect on their paint, even if they know everything in their local water, it's best to just go with the 90% concentration.

Bill and other airbrush gurus recommend old milk and winshieldwasher jugs as practice targets for airbrushing. Give it a try. (Didn't work for me, but I just have to be different… Propeller [8-])

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Kizzy on Monday, April 28, 2008 4:19 PM
Triarius,

Thanks for the helpful info about the isopropyl alcohol. For thinning the paint, I purchased and plan to use Tamiya X-20 thinner. I certainly would never have used Windex for that! But for cleaning the airbrush, yes I am planning to use Windex, and now, based on your suggestion, I'm also planning to use a few drops of Windex on a small piece of cotton lightly lodged inside the air cap on my Paasche H to help prevent the tip drying between coats. Does this sound about right?

I called my local hobby shop and they actually have a bin of old plastic model parts to use for scrap. So I'm going to head over there and pick up a few for practicing.

Thanks everyone for helping a newbie. There is a lot to know, but it's all in fun.

-Kizzy

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Monday, April 28, 2008 4:56 PM
Thumbs Up [tup]

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by namrednef on Wednesday, April 30, 2008 8:25 AM

 Kizzy wrote:


Also regarding practice -- what is a good source of scrap styrene to practice on? Should I buy a cheap model kit to use as a test dummy? Or is it possible to just buy scrap at the hobby store? I presume the same stuff is available in parts for use in scratch building?

I am amazed that an LHS had 'spare parts' laying in a box!  I'm happy they did! Wish I had a LHSSigh [sigh]

I was going to offer you my P-35 test bed hulk.....already stripped paint from it twice and it will need it again soon as I learn the nuances of using Future! Oh No Kizzy! You haven't mentioned using Future in your thread..........! I suggest doing a search on the subject or search for a great article called 'The Complete Future'. It's a trifling monograph by Swanny of Swannysmodels and very informative! (Swanny is a member here, too).

Should all else fail......I have another P-35 in the stashWink [;)]

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Kizzy on Thursday, May 1, 2008 12:28 PM
Yes, I have read about the wonders of using Future, and "The Complete Future" article. I drove around town to five stores looking for it until I finally found a bottle. Not as easy to find as I had thought!

The LHS did have a bin of scrap plastic and other random parts, but it turned out it wasn't free, just sold at a discount. I picked up three parts trees for test spraying at about 50 cents each. Not too bad.

Thanks for the offer on the P-35. I might still take you up on it some day! :)

Cheers,
Kizzy

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Thursday, May 1, 2008 1:04 PM
Future is now called: "Pledge Premium Floor Finish with Future Shine." Yuck [yuck] Same stuff, different ad wonk.Dunce [D)]

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Kizzy on Thursday, May 1, 2008 3:57 PM
Yep, that's the stuff I bought. I knew about the name change, but it still took me a while to find it! I went to two supermarkets (Ralphs and Vons), Target, OSH, Rite Aid, and CVS. No luck. I finally found it at Long's Drugs.
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