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Artist oils versus acrylics

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  • Member since
    April 2008
Artist oils versus acrylics
Posted by JayDog on Friday, May 2, 2008 2:40 PM

Hello everyone, not only am I new to the forums but new to the world of scale modeling so I apologize if my question (s) appears to broad. Dunce [D)] I am preparing to paint several figures, both resin and metal and am undecided as to use 'Artist-Oils' or acrylics to paint the figures. 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks 

Also I am bulding a Flakpanzer-Mobelwagen and am curios as to the apperance of 'tools' i.e. shovel, wrench, ect. found on the hull, what is the best method for making them appeared weathered? should they be present on the model when it is weatherd (wash/pastels) or treated seperatly and attached later?

 Thanks again

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Southeast Louisiana
Posted by Wulf on Friday, May 2, 2008 6:23 PM

I'm not a figure guy but I have heard of people using both for their figures. So, I will leave this question to the pros.

Welcome to the forums Sign - Welcome [#welcome]

Andy 

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by JayDog on Saturday, May 3, 2008 2:04 PM

Thanks for the reply Wulf, you are right most (if not all) use a combination. I already have a good supply of enamels and acrylics as well as the basic Winsor-Newton Oils. Last night I ordered a basic flesh set of Andrea acrylics from Squadron! so now its just trial and error, cant wait to play!!, I mean paint! Chef [C=:-)]

 

Thanks 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by namrednef on Monday, May 5, 2008 4:45 PM

 

You might try posting this topic over in Dioramas or Armor.....there are some really talented figure and armor painters over there!

HTH 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Thursday, May 8, 2008 9:15 AM

The big difference in the two are drying time. Many figure painters like to use oils because it allows plently of time for blending of shades - a technique much used in oil painting itself. Acrylic drys very fast and the blending technique is very difficult to do. But of course, I've seen many great paint jobs with Acryl's alone. You do have to deal with slow drying time for oil - as it may take days to drying completelyl before you can add a new layer of paint on. I've seen a few combine the two, use acrylics to do the base colors and then use oil to do any areas that needs very smooth transitions in tone.

Tools can be weathered on or off, depends on your preference. Besides using pastels or pigments to add 'dirt' or 'dust' to the tools, one common trick to use graphite powder (from scrapping a common pencil) to the tip of shovel, ax, pick, etc... to show use and a bit of metalic sheen to that part. 

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: The Bluegrass State
Posted by EasyMike on Thursday, May 8, 2008 9:19 AM

 JayDog wrote:
...undecided as to use 'Artist-Oils' or acrylics to paint the figures...
 

Take your pick.  You can use either or both and you will hear different opinions depending upon who you ask.  Some figure painters work exclusively in oils, others use only acrylics; lots of folks use oils over acrylics.  There are still some figure painters around who use only hobby enamels and get good results.  On the extreme end, I've seen absolutely magnificent figures painted with airbrush inks; the stuff graphic artists use for airbrushing.

Try each medium and pick your favorite(s).

 Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Thursday, May 8, 2008 12:58 PM

Over the last several years, I've moved to Andrea and Vallejo acrylics almost exclussively. I only use oils where I need a deep wash, such as hair or fur. These two brands of compatible paint have an incredible shelf life and thin with diluted water, no need for esoteric and arcane thinners and formulae. They brush on very smoothly and you can add addional layers in minutes with no lifting as happens with Tamiya. Shading is done by applying several thinned layers of paint. You may want ot invest in some relaly good brushes. I'm using mostly a #2 Kolinsky sable with a fine point for small areas and detail work, including eyes in 54mm.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

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