Airbrush POINTERS?- SPITTING..

I use a Badger, but for me, I usually see spitting when the needle/tip are getting partially clogged.  New needle/ cap would seem to rule that out, though.  I would try raising the air pressure some more.  Seems to me that enamels at 30% thinner would be plenty thin.

Is it spitting or pulsing?  If its pulsing it could be the aircap is not tight, use the wrench to tighten it up a little.  I could also be the internal needel packing needs replacing.  If its that old you might want to do a through cleaning and replace the internal packing.

It's spitting.  Will check out the needle packing thread. I just ordered a new air valve assembly, probably should have order all new internals since they are cheap.  Thanks.

Yeah, but I used to clean it after every session but have gotten tired of that.  Now I run lots of thinner through it after each color and break it down to clean it every 3rd or 4th session.  Maybe need to go back to old plan.  Will try more pressure. 

30% seems like more than enough to me, too. In fact, it wasn't covering and I wound up putting too much paint/fluid on some engine cowlings and it still didn't cover perfectly.

Thanks.

I've run into this more then once.  The problem is a sealing problem of the nozzle to the body.  It's not sealing right, and allowing air around it.  Check the o-rings if applicable, and all seals.  On my two metal body airbrushes, one uses and o-ring around the nozzle and the nozzle screws into place.  The other one has a little plastic grommet at the base of each nozzle and the nozzle slips into place and the cap holds it on.  I much prefer the method of the second airbrush because the other one, when screwing the nozzle back in from cleaning, sheared off inside the body of the airbrush and now it spits.  I can remove the part inside the body easily enough, but the nozzle is 30 bucks plus shipping at the cheapest that I have found.  The airbrush does spray heavanly though, and has the finest lines I've ever seen.  Anyway check your seals around the nozzle and make sure it seals well, replace any seals you can, and I bet you solve your problem.

Thanks.  The problem was the airvalve assembly.  I had ordered a new one because it was also sticking slightly open sometimes and for $6 I figured I might as well replace it.  Well, not only does it not stick any more but I noticed it doesn't travel down as much as the old and it stopped spitting.  Seems much more precise, now. 

Thanks all for the help! 

MarkS1 wrote:

Yeah, but I used to clean it after every session but have gotten tired of that.  Now I run lots of thinner through it after each color and break it down to clean it every 3rd or 4th session.  Maybe

That is how an airbrush should be cleaned!

An airbrush does NOT need to be disassembled after each painting session as it is detrimental to the airbrush and causes more problems than leaving it assembled and just cleaning it good and back flushing it.  

MikeV wrote:

MarkS1 wrote: Yeah, but I used to clean it after every session but have gotten tired of that.  Now I run lots of thinner through it after each color and break it down to clean it every 3rd or 4th session.  Maybe That is how an airbrush should be cleaned! An airbrush does NOT need to be disassembled after each painting session as it is detrimental to the airbrush and causes more problems than leaving it assembled and just cleaning it good and back flushing it.

 

Hey MikeV,

Yep, cleaning it this way works just fine and is a lot less hassle. And the spitting problem was also related to too low pressure.  I was running it about 23-25psi but have found it works much better at 32-35psi.  Lines are tight, no spitting, no overspray and curisously, there doesn't seem to be as much paint left inside the AB to backflush.

All in all am getting back on the beam.  Having recently taken taken it out of the attic after 18 years I've simply forgotten a lot. 

Thanks.

MikeV wrote:

MarkS1 wrote: Yeah, but I used to clean it after every session but have gotten tired of that.  Now I run lots of thinner through it after each color and break it down to clean it every 3rd or 4th session.  Maybe That is how an airbrush should be cleaned! An airbrush does NOT need to be disassembled after each painting session as it is detrimental to the airbrush and causes more problems than leaving it assembled and just cleaning it good and back flushing it.

Not to hijack the thread, but what should I clean acrylics with? Could I just run windex through it or does it need to be whatever I use for thinner? TIA. 

AJB93 wrote:

MikeV wrote:  MarkS1 wrote: Yeah, but I used to clean it after every session but have gotten tired of that.  Now I run lots of thinner through it after each color and break it down to clean it every 3rd or 4th session.  Maybe That is how an airbrush should be cleaned! An airbrush does NOT need to be disassembled after each painting session as it is detrimental to the airbrush and causes more problems than leaving it assembled and just cleaning it good and back flushing it.   Not to hijack the thread, but what should I clean acrylics with? Could I just run windex through it or does it need to be whatever I use for thinner? TIA.

Windex will work just fine. Clean it thoroughly and then spray some filtered or distilled water through it to clean it out without leaving any mineral deposits. 

Do NOT use your thinner for cleaning, it is far too expensive.

 

MikeV wrote:

AJB93 wrote:  MikeV wrote:  MarkS1 wrote: Yeah, but I used to clean it after every session but have gotten tired of that.  Now I run lots of thinner through it after each color and break it down to clean it every 3rd or 4th session.  Maybe That is how an airbrush should be cleaned! An airbrush does NOT need to be disassembled after each painting session as it is detrimental to the airbrush and causes more problems than leaving it assembled and just cleaning it good and back flushing it.   Not to hijack the thread, but what should I clean acrylics with? Could I just run windex through it or does it need to be whatever I use for thinner? TIA.  Windex will work just fine. Clean it thoroughly and then spray some filtered or distilled water through it to clean it out without leaving any mineral deposits.  Do NOT use your thinner for cleaning, it is far too expensive.

 

Amen to that.  Can I use Windex to clean up after enamels, which I use mostly? If not, what esle works besides Testors AB thinner at $9 a can? I thought of regular 'ol mineral spirits but seems to thick and greasy for the AB.   

Thanks. 

Mark, if you are using enamels to paint with then Windex and other cleaners are a waste of time.

Buy a cheap pint or quart of lacquer thinner and use that to clean your airbrush with.

Lacquer is cheap and it is an excellent cleaner for enamels, lacquers and other paints.

 

 

MikeV wrote:

Mark, if you are using enamels to paint with then Windex and other cleaners are a waste of time. Buy a cheap pint or quart of lacquer thinner and use that to clean your airbrush with. Lacquer is cheap and it is an excellent cleaner for enamels, lacquers and other paints.

Hey MikeV,

Roger, that.  Thanks.