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Finishing tools - Where can I find them?

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  • Member since
    November 2007
Finishing tools - Where can I find them?
Posted by tmnull on Saturday, June 7, 2008 4:11 PM
I'm having a really hard time finding the materials I need to produce a quality paint job.  Mainly what I'm looking for is a between-paint sealant/protectant.  Do I have to have Future for this, or can I use clearcoat, and where can I find future anyway?  And are there different types of future that only work well with certain paints, or is it pretty universal?  I'm also looking for Micro-mesh sanding pads, but I can't find the finer grains anywhere.  I found a set up to 4000, and the 12000 individually, but I can't find the 6000 or 8000 anywhere.  What's the best place online to get specific finishing tools?  I usually get most of my stuff from greatmodels or hobbylinc, but when it comes to the more specific finishing tools and accessories, they're pretty lacking.  I've also tried megahobby, internethobbies and a few others, but they're even worse.  Can anyone help me out?
  • Member since
    August 2007
Posted by ben1227 on Saturday, June 7, 2008 4:44 PM

Squadron has the Micro-Mesh pads as a set including a 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 grits, plus a rubber polishing pad.

.:On the Bench:. Tamiya 1/72 M6A1-K
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Saturday, June 7, 2008 4:50 PM

Check your local automotive supply shops, especially those that carry automotive paint and supplies for the fine sand paper you are looking for.

What are you painting exactly that you need to do such a fine sanding? Are you sanding the paint layers between applications?

I find that other than using some sanding sticks or sand paper to do the heavy removal I can get the finest sanding I need done with polishing sticks. They type you find in the nail care section of your local drug store.

Again you can source really fine (I recommend 3M Products) sanding resource from your local auto paint supplier. Also, you can order direct from Micro-Mesh. If you're frugal like me, shop local and $ave.

 

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Saturday, June 7, 2008 5:55 PM

Dont limit yourself to shopping only at hobby shops or only buying modeling supplies that have a model manufacturer's/seller's logo

I found a set of the Ultra-fine sandpaper at the local Rockler woodworking store.  

I have bought fine grit sandpapers and Bondo body putty at the local auto supply store.

I buy my sanding sticks at the local Sally Beauty Supply.

I buy my paint thinner by the gallon at Lowes.  Thats also where I got my airbrush compressor.

As far as Future floor polish,  that comes from the grocery store.  It has been relabeled as 'Pledge for Floors with Future Shine', or something similar.   While in the grocery store pick up some ammonia to clean up after the pledge as well as acrylic paints.le

  • Member since
    November 2007
Posted by tmnull on Saturday, June 7, 2008 8:23 PM

Right now I'm trying to salvage a ship model that got screwed up.  I started it 8 or 9 years ago, at a time when I didn't have a whole lot of patience, so I never bothered to use primer, thin the paint, or seal each coat before applying another color over it, much less sand it down afterward to make it nice and smooth.  When I painted the deck plates I masked all the hatches and barbettes and stuff with masking tape, which just soaked up the paint and got it all over where I didn't want it.  I scratched the hell out of all that stuff trying to get the paint off.  The paint was so thick and it dried so fast that I basically had to glob it on to get it to cover.  If I tried stroking, the second stroke would just pull up the first.  What I ended up with was a sloppy, blotched and uneven paint job and a really scratched up surface.  I got frustrated and just put it away, and it stayed in the closet pretty much through college.  A couple years ago I pulled it back out to see what I could do with it.  I decided to strip all the paint off and try again.  I thought painting over all the scratched surface would help hide it (turns out it was supposed to painted anyway), but it didn't.  So now I'm gonna completely sand it down, get it as close to its original condition as I can, and start over.  For the deck plates, I'll have to use sticks and flat sheets to get all the little stuff and get in the tight spots, and I've already got those.

The pads though I think'll be better for the hull, since it's a much larger surface, and since they're thicker than sheets they'll be a little easier to use with my short, fat fingers.  The hull turned out a hell of a lot better than the deck plates, but by my standards now it's still pretty shabby, so I'm gonna sand it down and make it smooth.  I'm not sure that I'll need all the finest grains, but like I said, I wanna get it as close to original as possible, and they'll be good to have, just in case.  And, once I do get it painted, I'll have more flexibility in getting exactly the surface and appearance I like.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Sunday, June 8, 2008 7:02 AM

To remove the paint without sanding try Easy Off Oven cleaner (or equivalent product).  Available in grocery stores.

If you have a storage container/tote which will hold the model - use that.   Else use  a large heavy duty trash bag.   Spray the oven cleaner over the model - get good thick coverage.   Seal the tote or bag and allow the cleaner to work for several hours.   I typically let it go overnight.  

Remove the model from the tote and brush with an old toothbrush under running water -- most of the paint will come off.   Apply a second coat of oven cleaner for stubborn spots & repeat.

Typical eye & skin precautions apply -- the stuff is caustic.

Next time, don't leave your tape on too long.

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