Masking Question

I've haven't had any paint peeling problems with 3M Blue Painter's Tape.  However for the best masking, I do prefer Tamiya Yellow tape.  It is extremely thin, strong, flexible, cuts cleanly, and seals very well.  It really does provide the best masked edges.  It's a little pricey, so I use both Tamiya Yellow and 3M Blue.  I'll use the Tamiya Yellow tape to create the actual masked edges, and use the less expensive 3M Blue tape to fill in.

Also note that there are two 'flavors' of 3M Blue Painters Tape,  one is for delicate surfaces and the other is for regular surfaces.   The delicate tape's adhesive is not as strong, but is more than a 3M Post-it note.   Check the color of the roll core.   I think the delicate stuff is white and the other is yellow (I'm at work and the tape is at home).

On the subject of Post-it notes ... these make good quick masks especially if you want to mask off a panel for painting or weathering

I agree with the suggestions for Tamiya masking tape.

It is good stuff!  

I have learned from advice in these forums that Tamiya is the tape of choice also! And as I have  been learning how to use Future in it's many ways.....coating your canopies and other parts with Future seems to help any masking project......even painter's tape.

And remember......a sharp blade in your knife!

HTH 

While on the subject of masking I have a specific problem. I am working on a Hasegawa 1:350 Nagato. I would like to start painting the hull. Here is the problem. The waterline comes very close to moulded  in detail. It is almost impossible to mask the waterline in the detail areas with the usual masking tape. Hopefully someone reading this post has come across a similar problem and has an answer. Any help would be appreciated.

IR3 wrote:

While on the subject of masking I have a specific problem. I am working on a Hasegawa 1:350 Nagato. I would like to start painting the hull. Here is the problem. The waterline comes very close to moulded  in detail. It is almost impossible to mask the waterline in the detail areas with the usual masking tape. Hopefully someone reading this post has come across a similar problem and has an answer. Any help would be appreciated.

Try cutting very thin strips of masking tape, say about 2mm across, as these will conform far better than even 6mm tape over detail.

Also you can cut the tape where it buts up against raised detail, and apply a second peice of tape over the detail, burnished down with a toothpick. This prevents paint bleed, I know, I learnt the hard way.

Karl

IR3 wrote:

While on the subject of masking I have a specific problem. I am working on a Hasegawa 1:350 Nagato. I would like to start painting the hull. Here is the problem. The waterline comes very close to moulded  in detail. It is almost impossible to mask the waterline in the detail areas with the usual masking tape. Hopefully someone reading this post has come across a similar problem and has an answer. Any help would be appreciated.

Look for ChartPak Tape,  crepe is best.   Go to a real art supply store.  Not a big box arts & crafts store like Michaels, Hobby Lobby, or the like.   I've seem ChartPak in widths as narrow as 1/32 inch.   The crepe tape is similar in texture to masking tape and bends/conforms to curves well.  Don't leave it on for a long time, because it is like beige masking tape -- the adhesive will 'cure' to the surface.

Other options include 3M Automobile Pin Stripe tape (from the local auto finishing supply house, not Pep Boys, Trak Auto, etc).  This is a flexible vinyl tape which also bends & conforms to compound curves.  I use this to mask boot top lines on 1:350 scale ship hulls.