Trying Vallejo acrylics - any advice?

Vallejo "Model Color" paints are very thick - almost gel-like and need considerable thinning before they can be airbrushed. Sorry I can't help with thinning ratios because I haven't started to use them yet, apart from putting a drop or two through for testing.

Because of the amount of thinning required, it is necessary to paint in multiple thin layers - you won't get "solid" coverage in a single coat.

The "Model Air" range paints are considerably thinner and said to be ready to airbrush out of the bottle, but I believe further thinning is suggested.

Thin with distilled water - Vallejo paints don't like alohol and will clump into a gooey mass. (I believe the correct term is "flocculate").  

The only other issue is that they need very vigorous shaking to mix the paint in the bottle. The dropper bottle is very convenient for dispnsing paint, but it means you can't stick something in there to stir it. Shake well, or have variable results.

I have used water, alcohol and the Model air thinner with almost the same results. Make sure you shake the bottle well then mix you thinnner and paint thouroghly.  You will get dry tip from time to time just have a q-tip with some water or alcohol ready. 

 

Mist on your first coats really light to give it some teeth from further coats.  Do not rush it as it will go on heavy.  Also let it dry a couple days before masking or it may list.

Thanks for the tips!

I'm using a mix of the "Model Color" and "Model Air" brands. We'll see how it goes. I reckon if it goes badly, I'll just wipe it all off and go back to my trusty MM enamels. :-)

I wish there were more options for RAL colors, but aside from Xtracolor (not available in the States), Vallejo seems to be the only game in town.

PB

i've also just started using the model air range,i read up on them quite alot b4 starting and it seems the best thinners/retardents and cleaners to use are vallejos own.

i have to say they work like a dream as long as you shake them up well, and the eye dropper bottle is a brilliant idea.

i do still have enamel paints but when they run out they will be replaced with acrylics

paul

Model Air does not need thinning through most brushes, but Game Color or Model Color does need to be thinned.  I have had success using Future as a thinner, 3:1 paint to future works nicely!  Shoots at 20 psi-ish, a bit glossy (who cares, you're gonna dullcoat at then end), and has a wonderful level surface that is both durable and ready for decals.

Vallejo paints do NOT like alcohol!  They turn into goop.  Same with windex (mostly alcohol).  Stick with water or future. 

More great advice--thanks!

Fortunately, I found an online retailer that ships Xtracolor enamels from overseas (Wonderland Models in Edinburgh). Xtracolor has the RAL colors I need for this build, so I'm gonna order 'em. Will take longer and be more expensive because of the bad exchange rate, but is worth the hassle, I think.

PB

Hi Guy's

Found this info at Vallejo's web site on preparing thier paints... Hope it helps:

Thinning
The use of "very thinned paint" is the essence of painting with Vallejo acrylics. Coming straight out of the bottle, the paint is too thick for most purposes and different degrees of dilution are necessary to achieve the distinct effects that make for a realistic painting job. As mentioned before, we use only very clean water. In order to do this accurately and establish a reference point, we will add a certain amount of water drops for every drop of paint we intend to use. We will designate this as "dilution rate" and it will be noted as "parts of paint" to "parts of water", (e.g. 1:1, 2:1, 1:3, etc.). The right amount of water is different for each particular situation, nonetheless there are three primary dilution rates with specific purposes that will give us a good starting point:

1:1 Minimum rate of dilution used primarily for basecoating. Good solid coverage.
1:2 Thin coatings, airbrushing, outlining and small details. Thin without being transparent.
1:5 Minimum for highlighting and shading. Transparent, base color will show through.

Thanks for the tips, guys! Fortunately, my Xtracolor order from Wonderland arrived yesterday (only a week to deliver from Scotland to the US east coast--not bad!), so I'm all set for this project. But I'm gonna file away this information, as I still want to try acrylics.

PB

Phil_H wrote:

Vallejo "Model Color" The dropper bottle is very convenient for dispnsing paint, but it means you can't stick something in there to stir it. Shake well, or have variable results.

I'm not sure whether Vallejo uses different bottles for shipment to various countries, but the tops easily come off of both the 'Color' and 'Air' bottles that I have.

It's not super obvious, but just grip the top of the dropper and pull/twist and it comes right out.

I've got an electric stirrer that I made from a battery powered 'frothers' for coffee cream.. I cut the circle off so that the bottom is an 'L' shape with the bottom being about 3/16 long. I stick that down in a Vallejo bottle and it'll thoroughly mix the bottle in just a few secs with no mess. Then put the dropper-top back on and dispense normally.


HTH
Jack

I tried the Xtracolor enamels last night. Man, that paint is wicked glossy! And thick. My F-104G looks like a 1950s hot rod. Gonna require a lot of flat finish.

PB

Xtracrylix paints are the way to go, because unlike xtracolor, they're the acrylic version. I've been using them for about a year now, and find them superb. Thin them with clean water, 4 parts paint to slightly less than 1 part water.

Vallejo Model Air paints are very similar to Xtracrylix, and I thin them in the same manner as Xtracrylix.