Decal Application on flat surfaces...

I would recommend that you gloss the whole model before you decal. The problem you'll run up against, should you decal over flat paints, is silvering. Silvering is caused by light reflecting off the air pockets under the clear film which makes the clear parts of the decal to show up on your model, which ruins the effect of the decal looking painted on. The gloss coat smooths the surface, allowing the decal to snuggle down to the surface without trapping air underneath. Then go back and apply a flat clear to restore the correct finish. If you only gloss where you're putting the decals, it'll show up as unwanted dark areas when you apply the flat over it. Believe me, the extra step is worth it. Post a pic of your jet when you're done!

 Glenn

I will, however it will be a few weeks as I am very slow since this is my first model in a long time!  Plus I may not get a chance to work on it for a few days now since the rivers here came up and I need to get my kayak on!

Any recommendation on a brand of sprays to use? 

Any ol' gloss-coat in a rattle-can will do, (the Future-Nazis will say different, but it's way over-rated, IMHO, and requires an airbrush) as long as it won't attack the finish you're applying it onto.  My general rule is acrylic over enamel, enamel over acrylic...  I use several different brands, whichever is on sale and comes in the biggest rattle-can...  

They can go "bad" however, so always preface an application by using a test-piece finished with the same paint you're decaling over..  If you're unsure, you probably won't go wrong with Testor's Glosscoat, though... It's worked for me for 40 years..

Just in addition:

It was mentioned above that "spot" glossing for decals may result in dark patches where the gloss is applied. This can vary depending on brand of paint and colour. Sometimes you can get away with it, sometimes not. For uniform results, gloss coat the entire model. If you would prefer trying "spot" glossing, patch test on an area of the same colour first. (eg. a "test hulk" painted with the same colour).

If you are using a decal setting solution, it is essential that the surface you are applying the decal to is gloss. When you apply the solution, the first thing that will happen is the decal (if responsive to your decal solution) will appear to shrivel and wrinkle. This is normal. As it dries it will settle on its own and sniggle down on the surface. However, if the surface is flat (as in not gloss), the roughness of the surface may cause too much drag as the decal flattens out, preventing it from flattening completely and causing wrinkles in the dried decal.

Okay guys...I have to dissagree with some of your replies.

A gloss finish is NOT essential to good decal applications.

I've been modeling for over 40 years, 10 professionally and I have NEVER had a problem with applying decals to a flat finish paint job.....sure, it's much easier to apply a decal to a nice gloss finish, but I can get the same results on flat surface too.....even on wood !

when you apply the decal to a flat finish, allow it to dry completely first. Then you can see any air that may be trapped under it. Any air paockets will show up clearly, also any "silvering" or air under the entire decal will be readily seen.

Simply apply some good decal solvent to soften the decal and pierce any air pockets with a SHARP hobby knife. You should see the solvent bleed through the decal and eliminate any trapped air pockets.....this also works for "silvering" .....repeat this step until you have the desired results.

Once your happy with the results, spray the decal area with a flat finish to seal the deal....Any shine from the decal should disappear and trust me, it will look look painted on !! 

Happy Modeling !

Jerry

Hey Anthony,

 Testor's Glosscote and Dullcote are readily available at any good hobby store or craft store like Hobby Lobby or Michael's. They are a very cool lacquer that can go over just about any paint. There are others...

Hans, I just started using Future for the gloss coat recently. I've tried to use it off and on for years and came to hate it, but didn't realize the old Badger single action was my problem. My wife gave me a Paasche, and the difference is huge. I'm now a card carrying Future Nazi. It's saved me some money for gloss coating, but I haven't had the guts to add flattening agent to it yet...

Jerry, what kind of solvent are you using, and is there a particular brand of decals you prefer? Do you add anything to the water, like white glue?

Thanks, Glenn

I'd like to add my to this topic if I may.  The last model I finished was the Collect-Aire XP-54.  I painted it olive drab over neutral grey.  Using an old, but still soft, cotton T-shirt, I buffed the model after letting the paint cure for several days.  I only did that to even things out but the thing I stumbled upon was that it really made the surface of the paint silky smooth!  Note that I did NOT say it was glossy!  Just that it was smooth.  So, since I had lots of extra decals, I tried applying the decals to this smooth surface....and it worked!  Beautifully, too, I might add.  I used Solv-A-Set on top of the decals and they snuggled down nicely in the panel lines.

So perhaps give that a try if you were a bit apprehensive of applying a gloss coat.  There was no silvering whatsoever.

Eric

mississippivol wrote:

Jerry, what kind of solvent are you using, and is there a particular brand of decals you prefer? Do you add anything to the water, like white glue?   Thanks, Glenn

Glenn.....I have used Microscale Micro sol, and micro set for years with excellent results. Micro sol is basically white vinegar (smell it) which is a mild acid that helps soften the decal.

As for decals, any quality brand of decals works well.....the thinner the decal film, the better !

regarding the Testors glosscote and dullcote, I found that they are VERY unpleasent to use (not to meantion TOXIC) unless your outside, or using a spray booth......Floquil has a very excellent clear and flat spray that I prefer to use and they work great over every type of paint I've ever used.

Just keep in mind that ANYTIME you use a spray product, DO NOT breath the stuff !!!! Either spray outside, or use a spray booth if possible......Your lungs are a terrible thing to waist !

Hope this helps

Jerry

 with any spray paint