Decals breaking in pieces....

There can be many reasons for this occurring - some completely out of your control , like how the kit was stored before you bought it.

Now that you know it's happening, if you haven't completed decalling your model, there are a few things you can do. MicroScale make a "liquid decal film" specifically to resolve the problem you have - just give your decals a coat (brush or airbrush) and let it dry before applying your decals as normal. Alternatively, some members here have reported success with clear sprays (I can't recall any specific brands though) over the decals before soaking.

Note that both of these solutions will create a continuous film across the whole decal sheet, so they will need to be closely trimmed before application.

I promised myself years ago I would make a Spit Vb with Ian Gleed decals.  Back then in the mid-80's I got hold of a "Micro Scale Decale" sheet 32-32 which had Gleed's decals.  Next was Hasegawa's 1/32 Spit Vb.  Then at least a 20 year gap due to family problems & now the moment has arrived to apply those 20 year old decals.  I tried a practice piece to see what would happen.  The "crumbles" happened, not good.  So, back to FSM forum for help.  There it was, spray on some clear & trim close.  With fingers crossed I carefully trimmed the decals as close as possible w/o spoiling the integrity of the decal.  Lots of patience needed here, cause it does take time & a sharp scissors.  Once done, I took low tack masking tape & doubled it over, stuck it to a decent piece of paper, then carefully placed several decals on the tape.  I spaced these deacls out & actually used several pieces of tape getting all the decals ready for the spray.  I used a new can of TAMIYA clear flat spray, TS-80.  Under a bright light I gently sprayed the decals checking carefully to insure a good coat, good coverage but no runs or too thick.  Yes, I recommend a couple test runs first to get the hang of it.  OK, yes it worked, it did take a lot of time for the decals to come loose of the backing sheet, I also used a lot of Micro-set & a generous amount of patience...I stress the patience part.  Many thanks for all your help with my questions, hope this will help others with their decal problems. 

Cheers.... Bill

Alternatively, some members here have reported success with clear sprays (I can't recall any specific brands though) over the decals before soaking.

I used several different clears with varying degrees of success, but I swear by Testor's Decal Bonder now... Comes in a spray can same as hobby paint and creates a continous film over the sheet.  It's primary use is for making the carrier film for home-made decals on ink-jet printers, but it works on commercial ones as well...  Just be sure to let it dry, and make double-sure you don't get any on the back of the paper...

I've added Tester's Decal Bonder to my "needs list."  Many thanks Hans von Hammer, you guys are the best!!

Cheers...have a great weekend....

Bill

spuds 1 wrote:

I promised myself years ago I would make a Spit Vb with Ian Gleed decals.  Back then in the mid-80's I got hold of a "Micro Scale Decale" sheet 32-32 which had Gleed's decals.  Next was Hasegawa's 1/32 Spit Vb.  Then at least a 20 year gap due to family problems & now the moment has arrived to apply those 20 year old decals.  I tried a practice piece to see what would happen.  The "crumbles" happened, not good.  So, back to FSM forum for help.  There it was, spray on some clear & trim close.  With fingers crossed I carefully trimmed the decals as close as possible w/o spoiling the integrity of the decal.  Lots of patience needed here, cause it does take time & a sharp scissors.  Once done, I took low tack masking tape & doubled it over, stuck it to a decent piece of paper, then carefully placed several decals on the tape.  I spaced these deacls out & actually used several pieces of tape getting all the decals ready for the spray.  I used a new can of TAMIYA clear flat spray, TS-80.  Under a bright light I gently sprayed the decals checking carefully to insure a good coat, good coverage but no runs or too thick.  Yes, I recommend a couple test runs first to get the hang of it.  OK, yes it worked, it did take a lot of time for the decals to come loose of the backing sheet, I also used a lot of Micro-set & a generous amount of patience...I stress the patience part.  Many thanks for all your help with my questions, hope this will help others with their decal problems.  Cheers.... Bill

I've done this, and it works pretty well, except you DO have to soak the decals for a long time; in my case, I had to soak them for a week.

I recently had some great results using Krylon Clear Matte Finish sprayed over some custom decals I made. I sprayed a few light mist coats then brushed it to make sure it was thin enouh to allow the decals to flex and conform to irregular surfaces and it even stood up to using MicroSet and Sol. The decals look like they came off a commercially done sheet.

I definately recommend Krylon Clear Matte Finish for decals!

Hans von Hammer wrote:

Alternatively, some members here have reported success with clear sprays (I can't recall any specific brands though) over the decals before soaking. I used several different clears with varying degrees of success, but I swear by Testor's Decal Bonder now... Comes in a spray can same as hobby paint and creates a continous film over the sheet.  It's primary use is for making the carrier film for home-made decals on ink-jet printers, but it works on commercial ones as well...  Just be sure to let it dry, and make double-sure you don't get any on the back of the paper...

Just a small note, while messing around I found out that Testors Decal Bonder and Glosscote are the same thing