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need tips on Decaling

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  • Member since
    December 2009
need tips on Decaling
Posted by coolcolourofblue on Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:11 AM

Hi, I resently  bought a tamiya 1:35 M1A2 OIF and i'm concerned about the decals my weakness is decals and i could use your tips. One of my problems is over time the decals tend to fall of or turn white under them, and it lookes really bad onn dark colours. is there some thing to help them not do that such as when i put them on of air brush the kit model with something?

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by coolcolourofblue on Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:15 AM

sorry for the last sentence ........ when i put them on or should i airebrush the model with something???

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Thursday, December 10, 2009 6:48 AM

Hi, and welcome to the forums.

If your decals are falling off after some time, it sounds as if you are soaking them for too long and losing some of the glue before you apply them.

  • For best adhesion and to minimise silvering (the whitish effect behind the decals after they're dry), decals should be applied to a gloss surface. For most military subjects, this means applying a clear gloss coat before applying the decals. This can be applied "all over" or applied only to the areas to be decalled. If you only apply clear gloss to those areas required, be aware that you may experience some apparent localised darkening as the gloss coat alters the reflectivity of the underlying paint. It will come back at least part way to the original shade, but may not in all cases.
  • Now that you have the surface prepared, it's time to cut and dip your decals.
  • Prepare a shallow dish of slightly warm water.
  • Dip your decal in the water, but don't leave it immersed. Remove from the water and place it on a hard surface and wait for about 30 seconds. As the water soaks through the backing paper, you may notice it darkening as the water displaces the air in the fibres. When it reaches a uniform shade, the decal should release from the backing paper and should slide freely. If it doesn't slide freely, wait 10 seconds more and try again.
  • Apply to the required location. If repositioning is required, gently prod it into place with a dampened (with water) paintbrush. If it refuses to move, dip your paintbrush in water and apply a little water to the edge of the decal. It should flow under the decal and you should be able to "float: the decal into position.
  • When the decal is in the required position, wick up the excess water with the corner of a tissue (ie Kleenex) or the corner of a paper towel.

For a subject like the Abrams, where most of the decals are applied to flat panels, you shouldn't really need a setting solution, which helps the decal to settle over moulded details. However, you can find details of how to use setting solutions elsewhere in the decalling forum.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by coolcolourofblue on Thursday, December 10, 2009 3:01 PM

Thanks a lot for every thing it sounds very help full. Don't worry i will use you tips thanks agian!

  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: Bradenton, Florida
Posted by 511inf11AAD on Friday, December 18, 2009 10:45 AM

When I have some really old decals or just plain bad. If they are old , I soak them till the backing falls or some times need to be carefull worked them off, I use deluted white glue, putting that on the back of the decals. Work pretty good for me, just be careful on natural metal finishes, you'll have to dab around the decal to remove the excess or it will discolor the metal/silver finish. You'll have to try it a few time to suit your self. I found that it will form the decal to panel line, rivets etc.

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by coolcolourofblue on Friday, December 18, 2009 4:11 PM

thanks for more help, i never considered using glue before.

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