yellowed decals

Thanks for sharing the tip. I've used the sun-bleaching method here in Washington with success (left them on the car's dashboard), but that was in summer. Would never have thought to use a fluorescent.

You're more than welcome. I've tried that as well, but in the winter it can take forever. I'm in the process of applying the decals now and they work as well as if they were new! They are absoulutely clear. I taped the decal sheet face to within about an inch of the light, not letting it touch anywhere, and then checked it each day until it seemed clear. Works great! Took about a week. Have fun!

Great tip! - especially with the usually sunless winters we have in WV.

The only negative using this method is that they are a little brittle. But there are solutions available on the market to solve that problem. I've applied them all, completed the build and they look great! Top-coated with semi-gloss acrilic they look painted on. The kit itself is much more fun to build and looks far better than when I was a kid, it was just released and I didn't bother to paint anything. The advantages of time and technology.

Ducksoup: Thanks for the tip.

I have some 1/32 Tauro F-104 stencil decals that have begun to yellow.

I'd much rather use the lamp method.