Decals really suck!

Were the decals old perhaps? I know it sucks and these things have happened to even the best of modelers(of which I'm not!) and all the way to beginners. I sounds like, as I said, the decals were very old (Who knows how long that kit was on the shelf) or the decals were inferior to begin with. You usually don't find out until you go to work with them. There are coatings to hold delicate decals together that are applied before using them, but it's probably too late.

I don't know what manufacture you are dealing with, but some may be willing to help. Otherwise you may have to seek an after market replacement.

Hang in there and don't give up!

I agree, hang in there. Ive had issues before where decals stick to the surface then crumble after a few minutes. It just happens. sometimes with bikes decals can be left off and they still look great. If theyre large solid decals you can sometimes paint them on. Depends on the scheme. post some photos and more help might be forthcoming (even maybe some decals if someone has the same kit)

It is a Tamiya model which is usually very high quality. I will come up with some other paint scheme, but it was a replica bike that was very specific with color. It really sucks but I will try to make the most of it. In the future I will not make models that are dependant on decals!

Oh yeah, I can feel your pain! Like FSM wrote almost 20 years ago, decals can make or break a beautiful model. So you just have to be suspicious. When I have an option, I paint the motives delivered as decals - if I have the skill, that is. If decals are to big, or unrealistic to put on, you just have to find other way. In the end, you can always switch to armor models - many of them can be done without any decals or transparent parts - one of the reasons so many people love them.Now don't give up, I wish you more luck next time and have a nice day

Pawel

Try the manufacturer (or importer), I've gotten replacement decals from Revell, Hobbycraft, and others with just a email. Some may charge a nominal fee.

Tamiya is sending me a new decal set. I'm not using it for major body pieces but for detail second attempts. Ive already had to repaint body pieces three times and wont do that again!

I'v had the same probluem go to a good hobby shop get you a bottle of Microscale Superflim and recoat the entire decal sheet let it ,dry for at least one hour. Then soak and apply the decals as usuall, I've put it on some decals as old as three years made them as good as new. You can even use it on new decals if theyare questnable.                                             hope this helps you       Aceses5

ACESES5

I'v had the same probluem go to a good hobby shop get you a bottle of Microscale Superflim

I think you mean Microscale Liquid Decal Film.

If you apply this to the whole sheet, you will need to trim each decal very closely before applying, as it effectively adds a layer of carrier film (albeit on top of the existing decal)

With care, you can apply to each individual decal. Apply as thinly as possible to minimise any additional thickness to the decals. Any apparent brush marks will self-level as it dries.

I have used this stuff successfully with 20+ year old decals which otherwise broke up with the curling of the backing paper when dipped in water.