Applying Decals

If you run into stubbron decals put a couple drops of vineger in luke warm water this will help break them loose                       ACESES5               

Arespontus

Thanks for the help everyone

I have a question for Don:  When you say you scan the decals, Can you tell me the procedure you do to make them. Can I just take a decal sheet from one of my model kits and take it into Staples. Do they have decal paper available in their store. I live in Canada so I don't know where else I could go to get someone to print off some new decals

Scott

No, I have found no places that carry water slide decals.  Further, many places will not put decal paper through their machines for fear of it jamming their machines.

Do you have an inkjet printer (the normal kind these days).  Inkjet decal paper has been perfected in the last few years and works great now. I get mine from Micro Mark, but several other mail- order hobby suppliers have it.

It comes in two kinds- clear backing and white backing.  Dark colored decals are easy- you use the clear backing.  You do have to cut out the decal carefully.  Light colored (and white) designs are a lot harder.  You need to cut them out much more carefully, since the backing is white and certainly shows up very clearly.  To make the cutting out easier, I set the background color of each area the color of the paint I will use in that area.

Thanks for the help everyone

I have a question for Don:  When you say you scan the decals, Can you tell me the procedure you do to make them. Can I just take a decal sheet from one of my model kits and take it into Staples. Do they have decal paper available in their store. I live in Canada so I don't know where else I could go to get someone to print off some new decals

Scott

Don't worry about water temp- I just use it as it comes from tap immediately (which generally means cold to room temp).

How long they take to release depends on brand.

Decals disintegrating are the bane of modeling.  Some brands of decals have more shelf life than others, but when they get old enough all will go bad.  I now do two things. One- If I believe kit is not freshly new, I scan the decals so I can make new ones if any disintegrate.  Two, there is a substance from Micro scale that coats decals with additional decal film and holds them together. I try one small decal to test each kit I start.  But having the scan is insurance in case something happens that the film does not fix (and for that decal that the test ruins.

After dipping the decals I place them on a paper towel to soak up the excess water.  When I plave the decal I place a drop of decal set or water on the model so the decal is easily moveable.  It also prevents air bubbles.  Then press with wet brush or damp finger and let dry.

Don't soak the decals. Dip them in water then remove from the water and leave them on a suitable (waterproof) surface for about 30 seconds. By dropping them in a dish of water, you risk the decal floating free and self-destructing when you try to pick it out from the bottom of the dish.

Soaking may also lead to excessive glue loss, causing the decals to not adhere to the surface you are applying them to.

If after 30 seconds the decal does not release from the backing and slide smoothly, wait another 10 seconds and try again.

The water should be about room temperature. Lukewarm is ok, but definitely not hot as the heat may encourage stretching or deformation.

If you find that your decals are prone to cracking or breaking up, you can coat them with a product like MicroScale Liquid Decal Film. This creates a flexible film over your decal which will help hold it together.