Sorry, another Future question

First of all, to these Forums! No need to apologize, we are all friendly people who love to help those who want to improve their skills. Feel free to ask anything you wish to know, and we will all help all we can.

Now to answer your questions:

The absolute best way to apply Future is through an airbrush undiluted, at 28-32 PSI. Don't wipe it off after applying! :-) Let it dry for 20-30 minutes before handling. For applying a dull coat to any military models, mix a 60-40 or 70-30 solution of Future-Flat Base (either Tamiya or Humbrol: both are water based) and then spray on with airbrush using the above technique. After using Future through your airbrush, simply clean it by spraying clean water through the airbrush for a minbute or so, then remove the tube from the water and spray until only air comes out. I only break the airbrush down to clean it when I use paints or after Futuring 10-12 models.

Decal solution is used to help adhere a decal to the model. The two kinds are a solvent and a setting solution. The solvent is used to soften a decal so that it conforms more completely to raised surface detail, thereby making it look as if it is 'painted on'. The setting solution is used to help the decal glue to stick more firmly and completely to the model. I rarely use the solvent unless I have lots of surface detail to 'mold' the decal to, and have only occasionally needed to use a setting solution.

One other wonderful thing about Future: On my older models where a decal is peeling up, I have taken a brush and used capillary action to put Future behind the decal. Then, using the same brush, I brush it back down onto the surface of the model, and continue brushing until the decal stays down. That way, I am able to save the decal by re-gluing and sealing the decal at the same time. Then I follow that by spraying the whole model with a coat of straight Future, and then (when it's dry) I spray it with a dullcoat.

I hope this helps answer your question.

I’ve had a different experience with using future. I shoot from an airbrush at 10-15 PSI and at about 1 inch from the model. One of the best modelers (in my opinion) on this forum (Pixilator) suggested this technique to me. Spray as if you’re a scale painter. Makes sense to me. Anyway, I’ve had success using this method. Thanks Pix.

The reason I do this is becuase if you have low humidity, and spray at high pressure and/or far away from the model, you may find that you get a grainy, or pebbly finish because the future may dry up before it gets to the surface of the model. If it dries up too much, it will lose its ability to flow together properly. (This is what happened to me, a few weeks ago.)

Check out this site for all sorts of other “Future” info: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

I use decal setting solutions to help hide the decal film, allowing it to blend into the finish. I also use decal solvents to help get the decal to conform to panel lines or other surface details. Be careful when using these things, as they actually dissolve the decal. That’s how they work, so practice before you start.

Speaking of practice, that’s the best advice I can give you. I’ve screwed up several times, trying out new techniques. I’ve learned that there are many “unspoken” variables that come into play when trying out new techniques. So, before you put it on the line with a 3/4 finished model, save yourself some grief and try it out on an old “hulk” model or get a sheet of styrene from a hobby shop. Take the extra two or three days to practice future application (for instance).

It seems like a lot but I blew a whole week of painting effort with my first botched Future application! It will save you headaches, and you’ll get the kinks worked out before. In the end, your model will thank you.