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New way to apply decals? - or not?

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  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
New way to apply decals? - or not?
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Monday, May 23, 2011 10:37 AM

I always have trouble applying decal set (the vinegar stuff) because on a glossy model it beads up, due to surface tension, and doesn't seem to really get under the decal well.  Yesterday I got the idea to try soaking the decal in decal set, (not decal solvent), rather than water.  It worked like a charm!  The decal loosened quickly and glided nicely onto the surface.  After a quick blotting with a tissue, it was stuck for good.

I can't believe it took me 50 years of modeling to think of this.  Has anyone else ever tried this method?

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Democratic Peoples Republic of Illinois
Posted by Hercmech on Monday, May 23, 2011 10:42 AM

I have never tried that method, but I do have the same thing happen when trying to use it over gloss, so I just dont do it any more.

I like your tip and will give it a try.


13151015

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Monday, May 23, 2011 10:52 AM

Another option I've used in the past is to soak it in a 50/50 solution of water and vinegar. Way cheaper than soaking it in dedicated decal solutions.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Monday, May 23, 2011 1:25 PM

Decals vary as how they handle being soaked in solvent versus water for releasing them from the paper. I've seen decals that otherwise do well in water self destruct in solvent as suggested. If you follow the instructions on the bottle of solvent, you shouldn't have any issues with getting decals to conform. Apply a little solvent to the area where the decal goes, less waste and just as effective. In essence the decal is soaking in solvent while on the model's surface.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Monday, May 23, 2011 7:20 PM

Please note, all:  I soaked the decals in decal SET, not SOLVENT.  The decal set is just water and vinegar.  I'm not sure what decal solvent is, but I know it sort of melts the decals, after they have been applied to the model, causing them to wrinkle up and finally settle down into the model contours, and after it is dry, usually they look very good.  I think that soaking the decals in solvent while still on the paper backing would probably dissolve them, and result in a disaster before they could be applied to the model.

The decals I used in this experiment were aftermarket, made by a company called Zotz, in Mexico.  They seem to be high quality and this technique worked fine with them.  I do not know what the results would be with other brands of decals.

I would be interested to hear of any other experiences with this technique, with other brands of decals.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by jetmodeler on Monday, May 23, 2011 7:39 PM

Sounds like an interesting technique. I've often had thoughts of doing that but never knew if it would work or not.

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Illinois
Posted by wjbwjb29 on Thursday, June 9, 2011 2:28 PM

Micro set under the decal and Micro Sol on top. Works every time for me.

 

Bill

On the Bench:   Trumperter Tsesarevich on deck Glencoe USS Oregon

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, June 10, 2011 9:20 AM

I use decal solvent very sparingly, and only when absolutely needed. I have ruined a few decals with solvent.  On the other hand, I almost always use decal set when applying decals.

I would not use vinegar without trying tests first.  Many vinegars contain dissolved stuff other than just the acetic acid, and these things can deposit out as slight stains.  Cider vinegar is usually okay, but still be careful.  Other vinegars can have a lot of crud in them.  I find a storebought bottle of decal set goes a long way, and setting solution is not a major model building expense for me.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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