How to apply a decal

ditto ,microscale is not "vinegar"

and solvaset is totally different ,it contains methoxy propanol.

some decals react better to different solutions so it helps to have a couple brands (or more) to work with.

all the solutions these days a much more tame , back when decals were  a lot tougher and much much thicker you had to use  original solvaset or a brand called champs to even touch them . now solvaset has changed the formula to a much milder  solution to work with todays decals , the older stuff(it had an amber hue) would instantly melt some modern decals into a goo blob

The Mr mark setter/softer are really good  solutions also.

JTBuckley

OK Thanks for clarifying...I misread Aaron Skinner's article in the recent FSM and tried laying decals over a gloss/micro-set finish without pressing at all and the decals silvered terribly! Just glad to be re-assured...

Sometimes it comes down to the decals themselves too. If it has been manufactured without enough adhesive, or if it's been over-soaked (typically when you drop it in some water and leave it in there too long) it won't stick well and you may get silvering despite your best efforts at preparing the surface. As mentioned above, dip it and then remove from the water and set aside for about a minute to allow it to soak through. Some decal setting solutions contain a mild adhesive which can help when the decals aren't "sticky" enough (eg. Gunze Mr Mark Setter - this can also be used to apply decals directly to a flat painted surface without silvering).

Also, some decals are very brittle and can crack or split if you press them onto a compund-curved or irregular surface. 

OK Thanks for clarifying...I misread Aaron Skinner's article in the recent FSM and tried laying decals over a gloss/micro-set finish without pressing at all and the decals silvered terribly! Just glad to be re-assured...

One would do the tapping and gently rubbing out airbubbles and such underneath the decal before using any softening solution. The decal will start to look all weird after youve done that and i think Hans is just trying to stress the fact that one should not handle the decal when it looks like that. Its supposed to

Richard

So... Are you guys saying one shouldn't press the air out of decal with a moist towel or finger? Just let it sit as you apply it?

Reasoned

Not wanting to hijack but quick question on decal setting solution, not sure the difference between Micro Sol/Set but I've been using straight white vinegar, am I nuts?

Setting solution is very mild and does not dissolve decal.  Decal solvent is very strong and actually softens and partially dissolves decal. 

The problem with white vinegar is  how "straight" it is.  Acetic acid from a chemical house- what the decal setting solution mfg would use- should be pretty clear.  I have found white vinegar from food stores often has residue in it.  Another source would be photographic "short stop" solution, or stop bath.  Problem is that I have no idea what concentration a good setting solution is.  Not sure if it is critical, but I assume you need to be in right ballpark.  Softening solutions are obviously not pure acetic acid, are apparently pretty dilute.

Not wanting to hijack but quick question on decal setting solution, not sure the difference between Micro Sol/Set but I've been using straight white vinegar, am I nuts?

i use microset for my setting solution. i only use microsol with aftermarket decals. i dip the decal in water for 2-3 seconds let it sit on a towel for the water so soak in. never leave the decal sitting in the water. dip it then let it sit. 

One thing that's been over-looked is that some solutions cause the decal to wrinkle up... DON'T TOUCH IT!!! EVER!! Add don't apply more solution to it to "smooth it out"..  Just leave it be until it dries...

 It'll straighten out and lay down flat again in a bit..

Ashley said most of it. I will merely add that I like to "wet" the surface with the setting solution just before I put the decal down.

Ordinarily I get away with just using the setting solution.  I reserve the solvent for really tough situations.  It can easily damage a decal if you are not extremely careful. It is very useful for putting decals on a very curved surface, especially compound curves, or surfaces that have bumps or ridges.

Hey Mike!

Welcome! To get the decals to hide, you'll need to apply them to a gloss surface. You can get that by either painting with gloss colors, or a clear gloss coat over your colors. There is a lot of debate as to whether you should gloss just the spots where the decals are going to go, or the entire model. I personally prefer to gloss coat the whole surface, to make it easier to get a consistent final finish. The decal solvents will soften the decals and make them conform to rivet detail and panel lines, and with the gloss surface, you minimize trapping air under the decal, which causes the "silvering" you hear about. Once the decals are thoroughly dry, wash away the solvent and decal adhesive residues with some water and soft stuff like Q-tips. Then, apply your dull coat to achieve the overall flat finish. You might have to do a couple of coats in the decal area to hide the film, you essentially build up flat finish to the thickness of the decal film. I think you'll be happy with the results!