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Hybrid decal/dry transfer

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  • Member since
    June 2011
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by stevehnz on Friday, October 14, 2011 5:22 PM

Never mind Don. it was a new one to me, being neither an armour or railroad modeller. I picked up some clear decal sheet off our local equivalent of ebay the other day & will be keen to put this to use.

Thanks again,

Steve.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, October 13, 2011 9:00 AM

stevehnz

That is a really nice bit of out of the square thinking Don, another reason I really need to get me some clear decal sheet. I used to use letraset dry decals years ago & even with younger eyes & fingers found the small serial nos & Royal Navy markings were a test of patience & perseverence. I like your idea a lot. It makes such good sense. Thanks for sharing.

Steve.

I've since been told my technique is old hat with the armor guys.  Apparently they do it all the time.  Also, apparently, the aftermarket for dry transfers is much better for armor than for any other genre ('cept for model railroaders, of course).

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2011
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by stevehnz on Wednesday, October 12, 2011 7:02 PM

That is a really nice bit of out of the square thinking Don, another reason I really need to get me some clear decal sheet. I used to use letraset dry decals years ago & even with younger eyes & fingers found the small serial nos & Royal Navy markings were a test of patience & perseverence. I like your idea a lot. It makes such good sense. Thanks for sharing.

Steve.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Hybrid decal/dry transfer
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, October 8, 2011 9:21 AM

I had bought a set of generic numbers and another of letters to do white tail number on a red Lockheed Vega in 1:72 scale.  I make inkjet decals for dark lettering, but have not perfected white inkjet decals.

The font I needed was pretty small, and the individual numbers and letters on those archer sets are very close together- too small to handle as individual digits/letters.  If I taped big sections to tail I would loose many digits and numbers close to the ones I was using, and there wouldn't be enough of the characters I needed.

I managed to get all traces of failed attempts from rudder (actually vertical stab).

Then, I took a sheet of old, clear decal paper.  It was much easier to apply the dry transfers on a nice, big, flat sheet of decal paper.  I cut out around the two sets of "decals" I made, leaving about a half inch extra. I gloss coated them with Testors.  When dry I cut them closer to the actual lettering, then applied them to model.  This worked great! I'll post some pics early next week.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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