Best way to use decal solvent.

Think you can still sol(vent) your problem. Worked for me in the past.

Take the finest needle you can get and carefully puncture the decal, especially where the bubbles and raised/ recessed details are. Just riddle the thing with holes, then apply the decal solvent

Should settle down after that, possibly needing more coats.

Richard

Dont mean to hijack, but I didnt know trumpeter did a Ticonderoga class cruiser please for name and scale?

Andrew

My mistake. Its made by Minicraft.

Thanks Richard. I will follow your suggestion.

Mike

AN UPDATE:

The decal solvent arrived from Squadron today. Used one of my diabetes needles (very, very thin) to puncture the bubbles. First coat of solvent took care of everything.

The only thing left is a little flat clear and its finished.

Thanks for the help.

Still on the workbench:

Lindberg 1/245 D-Day L.S.T.

Tamiya 1/48 Kennenkraftrad w/ Eduard PE accessories

The Ketten is my first major use of the photo etched parts

Mike

You are using solvent correctly. It is powerful stuff.  Use setting solution first.  Only use solvent if setting solution does not work well enough.  That is where you are at now.  To assist the solvent, if there are areas that are actually staying up suspended, not touching plastic surface, poke a few tiny holes or slits so solvent can get underneath those raised areas to bridge between decal and model surface.

Micro Set 1st blue bottle-and for tough cases,Micro Sol next-just a little dabbed on.With most decals you don't even need the Sol

And for really tough decal issues, bring out the Solvaset! 

Yep, treat it as a three part process. Definately do NOT mix the two to use at the same time, this defeats the purpose of having them separate in the first place.

First part it to use the Set as a wetting agent before applying the decal. If you are happy with the decal's appearance after that,,,,,,you can just stop and apply your clear coat.

If you want to us Sol, use that as your second step,,,,and do not disturb the decal while it is drying, if you feel the need to pop tiny bubbles, you can do that after the decal is dry. When finished, you can apply your clear coat.

Then, a third step is available if you have realllllly stubborn decals, that is to use the Solvaset, and you can use it more than once if you have to, or if you still have a bubble here and there to pop.

Just remember to always give the MicroSol and Solveset a chance to dry before thinking you need to do it again. And ignore that ugly, bubbly, bent up appearance you will see after the Sols begin to work, and before they are completely cured.

Rex

TarnShip

Yep, treat it as a three part process. Definately do NOT mix the two to use at the same time, this defeats the purpose of having them separate in the first place.

First part it to use the Set as a wetting agent before applying the decal. If you are happy with the decal's appearance after that,,,,,,you can just stop and apply your clear coat.

If you want to us Sol, use that as your second step,,,,and do not disturb the decal while it is drying, if you feel the need to pop tiny bubbles, you can do that after the decal is dry. When finished, you can apply your clear coat.

Then, a third step is available if you have realllllly stubborn decals, that is to use the Solvaset, and you can use it more than once if you have to, or if you still have a bubble here and there to pop.

Just remember to always give the MicroSol and Solveset a chance to dry before thinking you need to do it again. And ignore that ugly, bubbly, bent up appearance you will see after the Sols begin to work, and before they are completely cured.

Rex

And that just about says it all.  Thanks Rex. 

Gary

I have sometimes used three or four applications of decal solvent, giving each application a full day to set up.  I find it continues to work on subsequent applications, but with diminishing effect.  You will eventually reach a point where it doesn't do much- hopefully it looks okay be then.

If you are heavily weathering a model, sometimes you can include scraped or missing parts of markings as part of weathering :-)