Tribulations with inkjet decals

I can sympathize, with your difficulties, Don.

Having printed out a fair number of my own decals, I've never been able to closely match a dark colored surround to a background paint job. Even when the hue was perfect, the saturation has never quite looked right. The only "fix" I've been able to come up with is touch-up painting around the image before cutting out the decal--not a big issue for nose art, but pretty tough around any kind of lettering.

I had that same "ink runs no matter what" problem when I switched from a dead Lexmark printer (which had always worked flawlessly for decal-printing)  to a 2nd-hand (free) HP printer--no matter what combination of decal papers and/or sealants I used (and I tried them all), the colors always bled. Sometimes it was as much as two weeks after the clear-coat, which was truly frustrating. I eventually got a new low-end HP printer that came free with my new computer, and did a "what the h***" test run, expecting the worst, but all was fine. Evidently the different print cartridges it used had some different formulation of ink as well. Based on my experience, it seems an ink-problem, rather than a sealant problem.

Not much in the way of help, I know, but I feel for you.

Regards

Where do you find the decals to print from?

Reasoned

Where do you find the decals to print from?

Do you mean where do I get the graphics design?  My current project is a Beech Staggerwing.  The kit comes in only military markings- I wanted a civilian version.  I had scale drawings that showed the "speedbird" stripes on the side. I was able to scan, and adjust the scale to show the outline of the stripes. I used my graphics program to add a layer and draw and fill the stripes.

For the registration numbers, I used the text tool in the program. I found the closest font and typed in the number from a photograph of a civil Staggerwing.

gregbale

I can sympathize, with your difficulties, Don.

Having printed out a fair number of my own decals, I've never been able to closely match a dark colored surround to a background paint job. Even when the hue was perfect, the saturation has never quite looked right. The only "fix" I've been able to come up with is touch-up painting around the image before cutting out the decal--not a big issue for nose art, but pretty tough around any kind of lettering.

I had that same "ink runs no matter what" problem when I switched from a dead Lexmark printer (which had always worked flawlessly for decal-printing)  to a 2nd-hand (free) HP printer--no matter what combination of decal papers and/or sealants I used (and I tried them all), the colors always bled. Sometimes it was as much as two weeks after the clear-coat, which was truly frustrating. I eventually got a new low-end HP printer that came free with my new computer, and did a "what the h***" test run, expecting the worst, but all was fine. Evidently the different print cartridges it used had some different formulation of ink as well. Based on my experience, it seems an ink-problem, rather than a sealant problem.

Not much in the way of help, I know, but I feel for you.

Regards

More work yesterday ending in total frustration.  I tried Testors glosscoat, polyurethane varnish, and future.  The future was the worst.  The decal printing almost completely dissolved in a gob.  Fortunately, I have a laser printer, black only.  But the registration numbers I needed are black, so made a laser printout on some old laser decal paper I had.  Coated them with glosscoat last night, will try to apply the decals this AM.  They appear to be okay.

I am stuck for colored decals, however.  I see color laser printers real cheap these days- maybe I should just buy one of those, just for decals.

Got my registration numbers okay- used my laser printer.  Coated with glosscoat fine.  That is certainly not a permanent solution, however.  Need something to make decals with colors.  I hate to give up making homemade decals. I do a lot of civil subjects and not many aftermarket sources for the decals for those.

Hey Guys, I make a Lot of decals as I usually do specific models and just can't find the decals. I have found that using MicroScale Decal film is the way to go NO DOUBT!!!  You must Airbrush on the first coat, then after it dries, you can place a heavier coat with a soft brush if you wish. I just spray it a couple times, with increasingly heavier passes. This has worked for me time after time.

some examples:

These decals are done on clear Experts Choice paper all Nos. and Sq.L is on white Paper

James

Bomber Boy

Hey Guys, I make a Lot of decals as I usually do specific models and just can't find the decals. I have found that using MicroScale Decal film is the way to go NO DOUBT!!!  You must Airbrush on the first coat, then after it dries, you can place a heavier coat with a soft brush if you wish. I just spray it a couple times, with increasingly heavier passes. This has worked for me time after time.

James

Can you airbrush that stuff as it comes from the bottle, or do you have to thin it, and if you do, what do you thin it with?

Hey Don, I shoot it straight out the bottle.  You kinda have to hold your paper at an angle just a bit to see where it is going but with a little effort it does a great job. Sometimes on the white background paper you should cut around the decal after first coat, but not through and then apply the second and third coat so you can get the edges covered as sometimes if you don't they bleed just a little around edge, and that will leave a thin white line around decal. Good luck!!!!

James

Hi Don,

Regarding the "other problem", a friend of mine recently posted on another forum that there is a product made by the Papilio decal company.  It is a fixative for inkjet printed decals.  He is an accomplished modeler and if he is happy with a product, - it is GOOD STUFF!  I have not used this product, but would trust his judgement.  Here is a link to it: : http://www.texascraft.com/hps/home.php?cat=257
: http://www.texascraft.com/hps/home.php?cat=257    Sorry that this reply is a little late.  Hope this helps.

David