Trouble coating inkjet decals

Don, as long as you are doing experiments you might consider using some of the Krylon products available at WalMart, you get a huge can for $2 and I think they might work better.  Also you might consider using the Glosscoat out of a jar and using your airbrush to coat the decals....

I've had excellent luck with Testors Decal Bonder (in a spray can, which, coincidentally or not, smells a lot like the same company's Glosscoat). But I've got an HP printer, no experience with Epson whatsoever.

Don, I've only made my own decals one time, for my Confederate States Air Force Mirage F-1.  I printed them on the HP inkjet we had at the time and I initially had trouble with color bleed too.  Then, I found that I simply hadn't coated/sealed them well enough.  I brushed more of the Microscale (I believe that 's the brand, I'd need to check to be sure) fixative onto the decal sheet on and no more bleeding.

Gary

Don,

I agree with Gary. I've done quite a few inkjet decals and never had the bleed problem you mention. You really need to seal the printed decal before placing on the model. I use Krylon clear but any similar should work, My work flow: print the decal, coat with Krylon (1 thicker or 2 thin coats), let decal dry well, trim decal to size, soak in water (drop or two of Dawn or whatever), slide on model, let dry thoroughly (Microsol if needed), final spray with gloss, satin, or flat.

Yeah, maybe I should try the Krylon stuff.  I DO use Krylon primer.  What kind of chemistry is the Krylon clear?  Is it acrylic- regular lacquer, or something else.?

Don here's two sites for the info.

1-the product discription= http://www.krylon.com/products/crystal_clear_acrylic/

2 the MSDS= http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=DBS&UPC=724504013037

HTH

DUSTER

Don here's two sites for the info.

1-the product discription= http://www.krylon.com/products/crystal_clear_acrylic/

2 the MSDS= http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=DBS&UPC=724504013037

 

HTH

Thanks.

I had tried another brand of clear acrylic and the stuff still ran, though not badly.  Also it did not waterproof very well- had the ink run off a but  when I soaked the decal.  Those specs on the Krylon show much faster drying, so it should work much better. I 'll give it a try.

Don -

You refer to Epson inks.  What's been your experience with HP inks?

Curt

Haven't had an HP printer since I started doing decals.  Had a Canon, it ran, but not as bad as Epson I now use (Canon printhead went bad, cost more to replace than the whole Epson printer I bought- actually it was my wife's old one when she bought a new one).  So I have used Epson, Canon, and a laser printer, but no HP.

crkrieser

Don -

You refer to Epson inks.  What's been your experience with HP inks?

Curt

Curt:

If you'll excuse me butting in unasked, I've done a lot of decal work with HP printers, so I'll share my experience for what it's worth.

The first HP printer I tried was an old HP 722C, and I could never get relly good results with it. Useable---but not good. No matter what printer settings I tried (and I tried them all), no matter what decal paper and sealer combination I used, the ink would bead up on the paper, or run and bleed after it was sealed (sometimes weeks after, literally). Black was the least-bad to use, colors would never really get any saturation, and any red at all would 'blush' around the edges.

My current printer, an HP F4280, is exactly the opposite. It worked well from the first time I used it, pretty much regardless of the settings. I use Bare Metal's Experts Choice paper most often (because it's most economical---though I've used several others with no complaints as well), and Testors Decal Bonder spray to seal. (I have also used Krylon acrylic, Tamiya Clear and Micro Decal Film with good results).

I always assumed the first printer's problem was formulation of the inks for the required cartridge, though that's just a guess. I could never find any good information on ink formulations, so maybe it's proprietary by manufacturer.

Hope it helps.

Don Stauffer

but it still makes the Epson inks run.

i found i had to let them dry for like a WEEK before they'd be set enough not to RUN. (actual seven days)

OctaneOrange

Don Stauffer

but it still makes the Epson inks run.

i found i had to let them dry for like a WEEK before they'd be set enough not to RUN. (actual seven days)

Wow!  I was only letting them dry overnight.  Guess I'll have to plan way ahead, but that sure sounds worth trying.

Golly gee fella's, I must be doin' somthin' different from you all! I've used inkjet printed decals within an hour of overcoating  them and have never had a bleed problem. Jus' so y'all know, this is what I use: I have an old Epson C88 printer that uses DuraBrite ink (pigmented -important); I prepare the graphic using whatever software suits; I  print the graphic on decal paper using the Epson DuraBrite ink printer; usually do this the day or longer before but if I do it shortly before I want to use it I DRY the ink with a hair dryer; next, I spray the dried ink decal with Krylon clear acrylic and let it dry while I go about somthing else. That 'something else' never takes more than a half hour or so and, next I cut out the decal, dunk it in warm water containing a drop or two of Jet-Dri and do my best to apply it where it goes. Never have bleed problems BUT I sure do have problems with white decal paper and the white edge that's left no matter how careful you cut out the decal. Is my process that different???