old yellowed decals

Jake,

The trick with using the window is to not get them wet, which might happen if condensation builds up on the window overnight. I don't know if the plastic bag would be the way to go since you could chance getting condensation buildup from the heating and cooling of the air in the bag as you go from day to night. It will work, I'd just be a little cautious.

Glenn

Since the UV that bleaches the color out only is there during sunlight, one could just have the discipline to put them in the window during sunlight and take them down each evening, avoiding condensation that way.

Also, because of many problems with decals these days, if the kit is not brand new, I always scan the decals on my computer, so if decals do self-destruct or other problems I may be able to print new ones of what gets destroyed.

Don - I read about scanning from one of your earlier posts and have done that.Do you scan at 100% or something else?  

Also, when you put them in the sun, do you encapsulate them in plastic?

Glen - makes sense not to get them wet. Thanks for the tip.

pathvet9

Don - I read about scanning from one of your earlier posts and have done that.Do you scan at 100% or something else?  

Also, when you put them in the sun, do you encapsulate them in plastic?

My scanner always scans at 100%.  I set the resolution at either 400 ppi or better, depending on scale. 

I never did put decals in plastic.  Also, I didn't tape them to window- just set them on a table or floor where sunlight would hit them for most of mid-day.

I've done the window trick and it does work. Maybe not 100%, but its worth a try. I just taped em to the window, not covered in a bag or anything. It was an upstairs window during the summer, so no condensation on the inside of the window.

After you scan them what do you do after that are you able to use them not sure how that process works.

DOn't know as they disintegrated on water. So I bought a new set from Microscale, the easy way out.

I'm reading this regarding old decals and I understand the direct sunlight methods. However, I'm curious if it would work with a much older decal. I'm talking decal coming out of a 1956 1/72nd scale Revell kit (A-3 Skywarrior). The decal sheet seem good except for yellowing on the edges - No plastic baggy or paper backing to protect decal. I've looked everywhere for aftermarket decals for an A-3 Skywarrior but have no luck finding any. Heck, I don't even know if such  aircraft kit is made anymore since then. Any advice / suggestion would be appreciated.

If there is a site that does have decals for said aircraft, post a link. =)

plumline

After you scan them what do you do after that are you able to use them not sure how that process works.

You then need to make inkjet decals, using the scanned image as a master.  The process is a bit involved, but if decals are not available otherwise it is a way to go. There is an article in FSM in the January 2013 about the process.  Since I wrote the article, it seems Testors has changed "Glosscoat" a lot and sealing the decals has become harder. I am running experiments now on new methods of sealing.

Don Stauffer

plumline

After you scan them what do you do after that are you able to use them not sure how that process works.

You then need to make inkjet decals, using the scanned image as a master.  The process is a bit involved, but if decals are not available otherwise it is a way to go. There is an article in FSM in the January 2013 about the process.  Since I wrote the article, it seems Testors has changed "Glosscoat" a lot and sealing the decals has become harder. I am running experiments now on new methods of sealing.

If the old decals were only a little yellowed, they still might be ok to use. Keep in mind that decals are VERY thin and once applied, often don't look yellowed anymore. Unless of course they're put on a bright white surface.

As for sealing decals, I can't say enough about Pledge Future floor polish. I brush it on the spot where I'm applying the decal, then immediately and quickly place and position the decal on the still wet polish. After a minute or two, when the decal is firmly in place, I'll brush a little more over the decal and let it all dry together. The results, for me anyway, are a permanent, crystal clear decal with virtually no silvering.

Black Sheep:

Aero Master makes at least one A-3 decal offering, Mine (72-160) has 2 EKA's and an EA.  I got mine 10 years ago or so, but as I recall, I think they had another sheet as well, but not positive.

Hasegawa had a kit back in the late 90's, you can find them fairly regularly, including A-3, EKA-3 and KA-3 versions. My kit (A-3) has decals for two versions, so you might get a kit and be able to decal both with the same set of decals.

I'm doing a WIP on my build in Aircraft and post from time to time in the Carrier GB that is running Summer 2013.

Best, Marty