Micro Set, Micro Sol

Yep, it's not that I can't afford it (Microset) it's just why pay that price for a tiny bottle when I can just hit "mamas" white vinegar stash! 

Borg R3-MC0
Fist Set, then sol. But instead of Set I often just add some vingear to the water that I soak the decals in.\

Reasoned
I brush a little white vinegar on first then set decal, if that doesn't do it I brush on the Solvaset.

Is it just me or does anyone else think that that is all Microset really is anyway is just white vinegar? It sure as hell smells like it. And if it is why pay $2-4 bucks for 1oz of it when you can buy 32oz of white vinegar from the grocery store for almost the same price? Guess somebody said "hey, I use vinegar for a setting solution and know tons of other people who do too. I should throw a small amount in a bottle, label it as a "miracle" solution and make a fortune cuz people will buy it even though its just vinegar and they could get 10 times the amount for the price I charge." The power of marketing and suggestion at its finest.

Really white vinegar is okay as long as it does not have any residue nor spices.  Some do, and can leave some crud.  Yeah, it is a little cheaper, but I do not find decal setting solution to be a major cost factor in my modeling.

I brush a little white vinegar on first then set decal, if that doesn't do it I brush on the Solvaset.

I do use a small amount of soap in my decal water, but extremely dilute. I dilute by pouring out half the water, then refilling, then repeating the process about four times.  Why so dilute?  Because if you intend to seal the decals, too much soap film on the surface of paint can cause problems with further application of paint.  If that amount of soap is not enough for some decals, I do use a setting solution, because it wets (makes the water wetter) better than the super-dilute soapy water, without the risk of harming a subsequent paint.

Fist Set, then sol. But instead of Set I often just add some vingear to the water that I soak the decals in.\

And with really though decal: laquer thinner, high risk, high reward.

And I am not the only one to do so:

www.ipmsstockholm.org/.../stuff_eng_benshahar_bf110.htm

Reaper420

No need to buy microset really. Like stated its just a wetting agent to help slide the decal. I stopped using it and buying after I (finally) finished my first bottle. Why pay for something to slide a decal when you can use water for free? After all they are called waterslide decals. Just use it in the same fashion as microset. But microsol is a must. It does soften the cal to conform to any surface and does help with adhesion. Skip the set but buy the sol.

I've also stopped using microset to float decals, but because I found that for some decals it started softening them before I had them just right and I risked tearing them.  I use warm water to float the decal and once I've positioned it and blotted the water, then I start the Set-Sol-Solvaset process.

Paul

I also add a drop or two of dish detergent in the decal water to break up the water's surface tension in order to make it a little easier to move the decal into position.

Microsol and Tamiya decals don't get along.

No need to buy microset really. Like stated its just a wetting agent to help slide the decal. I stopped using it and buying after I (finally) finished my first bottle. Why pay for something to slide a decal when you can use water for free? After all they are called waterslide decals. Just use it in the same fashion as microset. But microsol is a must. It does soften the cal to conform to any surface and does help with adhesion. Skip the set but buy the sol.

That's a fact. Walthers model railroad decals, and Champ decals use an extremely thick film, and solvaset is made for them. If it won't work I don't know what will.

Tom

AndrewW

I find when Micro Sol won't quite settle the decal down (not often, but occasionally) I'll turn to Walther's SolvaSet.  Vicious stuff, it's a last resort.  Micro Sol will generally take care of most decals.

What he said.  If Solvaset won't do the deed, then I don't know what to tell you.  Strong stuff indeed.

Gary

I find when Micro Sol won't quite settle the decal down (not often, but occasionally) I'll turn to Walther's SolvaSet.  Vicious stuff, it's a last resort.  Micro Sol will generally take care of most decals.

I bought a bottle of Micro Sol last night and going to test it on a scrap kit. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

The stuff in the red bottle, Sol really works great on getting the decals to set on Dragon Zimmerit,really snugs down well.

I try to get by with setting solution only, if possible.  Solvent can be rough on some decals, and even on some finishes.  So I generally only use setting solution. If the decal does not nestle down like I want, I then try a small amount of solvent. I do repeated applications of solvent if necessary, again using as little as possible.  And, let the decal dry completely- do not touch it after initial application and pressing down.  Don't touch it while it is really soft.

Thanks guys! Now I understand the difference between the two.

I've gone back to using plain water to float the decal into place.  Even with the Micro Set, if it took me a little while to get it just right, then I ran the risk of tearing the decal.  With water, I have no issues.  Once I blot the water off and from under the decal, I give it a coat of the Micro Set.  After that dries, if the decal still looks not quite all the way down, I'll try another coat.  If that doesn't do the trick, I move on to the Micro Sol.  And if it is a stubborn decal, I've got Solvaset waiting in the wings.  Always letting the decal dry completely between applications.

Paul

Use Micro set first. Wet the area the decal is to go on with the Micro set, then slide the decal into position. It's a wetting agent and allows you to move the decal around so it's positioned correctly. If the decal sticks, add a bit more Micro set. After the Micro Set dries, coat it with Micro Sol. This is a softener which will allow the decal to conform to the surface detail. After it dries, inspect the decal. It may be necessary to apply another coat or possibly puncture the decal with a pin or the tip of a #11 blade to eliminate bubbles. I don't recommend using Micro Sol as a first step to apply and position the decal. It will probably cause the decal to stretch or deform before you get it positioned.

Hope this helps,

Tom