Tool for moving decals

I use a disecting probe that came in a dissecting kit I had left over from my college biology class days.

Its basicly a wooden dowel rod as a handle with  a long metal needle coming out one end.

I have 4 of these. they are quite handy for many modeling chores.

I use the others to enlarge small holes. Scrape putty (and other gunk) out of hard to reach areas (wing roots). Stirring-mixing tool (just remember to wipe it clean).

Alexandre Zart

Try to use a "shaper" brush. It's just like any regular brush but with a silicone tip.

Most art shops carry them.

Very information. Creative, imaginative, and enterprising. These are just a few of the words that I’m struggled the script, reading off the teleprompter.

realgenius

Friday Quick Tip: What's a Paint Shaper?

If you already know what a paint shaper is, then you'd better have one in your tool box because these are probably the best hobby tool around. If you've never heard of a shaper before, let me fill you in: a paint or color shaper (google also for "colour shaper" which is a brand name) is basically a brush handle, but instead of bristles the shaper has a flexible silicone tip.



There are a variety of sizes and shapes available and there are a million and one uses for this thing. I received a cup tip shaper for Christmas and was a little puzzled at first. But now that I've had it for a while, I always make sure that it is close at hand when I'm painting.

Here are a few things I've used it for:

Oops! Squeegee: A few times I've touched the brush to the wrong place and instead of going back later and painting a touch up, a quick swipe from a wet shaper can pick up that oops. Wedge and cup tips work best for this technique.

Paint Reveal: You might have done this as a kid; paint a design and then put another color on top and use a tool to remove the top color to reveal the design beneath. I've experimented with this a few times and it can make for some interesting effects. First put down a color and let it completely dry. Then lay down a thin coat of paint on top and while still wet, use the shaper as an "eraser" for the top color. I recommend one of the pointed tip shapers for this type of work.

Putty Smoother: This is one of the original uses for a shaper and one it excels at. Since the tip is flexible and silicone it doesn't stick to even the stickiest epoxy putty. With a little water, the shaper can really to excellent work smoothing out rough areas. Depending on the shape you're sculpting, you could use any style of tip.

Color Shaping/Blending: Another original use of the shaper is using it to smear and blend colors. I used my shaper this way for reflected light from a burning banner. I dabbled down a small line of orange and then used my cup shaper to pull the orange away from the light source. It works great over rough surfaces because the shaper will catch only the top edges were light would naturally fall.

For wargaming-sized work, I recommend the smallest (no./size 0) shapers and if you shop around you should be able to find a 5 pack of assorted tips for under $25. A real bargain for this versatile tool.

Try to use a "shaper" brush. It's just like any regular brush but with a silicone tip.

Most art shops carry them.

The best method I have used for years now is a combo of tweezers and a fine detail paint brush. When I cut out the decal I leave enough backing on one edge to hold the decal. Then I use the moistened (with water) paint brush to slide of the decal and position it. Works perfectly every time and you dont have to worry about hairs or tears. I always apply with water as microset tends to dry too quick sometimes for positioning. After I dab up the excess water careful not to disturb the decal (or you can wait till it dries, doesn't take more than a few minutes) then brush over it with microset followed by a bit of micrsol.

I use tweezers. I have a pair with very sharp points.  One does have to be careful not to tear the decals, by trying to apply them before the adhesive softens enough.  But after a few tries you learn to use them and it works fine.  The fine tip also allows me to poke and drag them for fine positioning after they are on model. I do use Q-tips to blot and push down the decals after they are in position.

I've used paintbrushes full of water, the point of a round toothpick, a wet microbrush, and sometimes my finger.  I find if I apply it over decal set, it may stick too soon before I am done positioning it, so I usually use water or a combination of both.  If I use water only, after it dries enough so it's not going to move anymore, I will brush over it with Microset.  I use Microsolve only for the stubborn ones.

There's a good article in the current FSM about this topic.

Thanks, Scapilot. I had a few instances where the decal stuck to my finger so the toothpick sounds better.

Russ

yeah, stay away from Q-tip unless you're using them to roll over top of the decals to stamp out remaining water that may be hiding under decals.  For actually moving the decals around, the two most pivotal tools that I have for this is my finger and a round edged tooth pick.  With both of those, you can't go wrong.  If they get stubborn, and want to lock up, just apply a little more water, and they'll usually play nicely again.