How to create my own decals

There was an article in FSM a while  ago that I hope went into enough detail.

Basically the problem breaks down into two categories- dark decals to go over light finishes, or light colored decals to go over dark finishes.  The later are hell, the former pretty easy.  Not all inkjet printers use an ink that makes good decals.  There are even different ink formulations within brands.  But you do not need an expensive printer.  When I bought a good printer for other work, and found it would not make decals, I ended up buying a cheapie forty buck printer.  The store offered a two-week bring-it-back-for-any-reason guarantee, so I made some decals in a hurry and found it worked fine, so it was a keeper.

Basically you make the artwork, either from a scanned image, a downloaded file, or with a graphics program.  Then you print it out on the decal paper.  Then you seal it with a clear overcoat.  Then you cut it out (the whole sheet will have decal film over it so you need to cut fairly close) and apply it like any water slide decal.

Found that issue with the decal article- it was the January 2013 issue if you can get ahold of it.

Thanks Don

Where is the best place to find decal paper? or a place you deal with

I think I will try and get that Jan 2013 issue.

Scott

I get mine from Micro Mark.  Their stuff has worked fine for me.  I have used several places.  I often order stuff from MM, and they give me good service.

Thanks Don

I have one last question. Should I use clear decal paper or white decal paper

Scott

Hey Don, I too am about to embark in trying some decals.  What type clear coat should I use after printing the decals?  I have a rattle can of Testors gloss coat.  Would that work, or should I get something like Krylon?  Thanks for the help!

Eagle90

Hi

I just purchased the January issue of finescale modeler.

Thanks Don

FWIW........Target has a printer HP 1055 on sale for $39.99 in store till July 27.

http://www.target.com/p/hp-deskjet-1055-inkjet-all-in-one-multifunction-printer-copier-scanner-j410e/-/A-12763402#

using same HP61 ink as the HP 2512.

Disclaimer: 

As with any consumer product,  check reviews and return policy prior to purchase.

I have no experience printing decals with this product.

Clear decal paper is for use to make dark decals to go over a light finish.  White paper is for white or light colored decals to go over dark colored surfaces.  The first type is easy to do and you should start out with clear paper and only make dark decals.

The problem with light colored or white decals is that inkjet printers do not print white.  So, for these you use the white decal paper.  But, the problem is that the whole sheet is white.  So, you are left with two choices.  Cut the resulting decal out perfectly, avoiding any white border.  Easy for larger, simple-shaped decals, hard for small lettering (or for any kind of lettering, for that matter.

One work around is to set the background color of your decal work to the color of the paint the decal will cover (if camouflage, good luck- probably not workable).  Now, two problems.  How good are you at color-matching (requires printer color calibration), and you get a slight white border the thickness of the decal sheet- thin but still noticable.  This has to be touched up after decals are applied.

I have used three types of overcoat.  The one I find works best is liquid decal film.  I have also used clear acrylic spray, sold at hardware stores.  Third is Testors Glosscoat.  I often seal decals with that stuff anyway.  Only downsides are that the latest formulation is the worst on many decal inks, and it shrinks a bit as it dries, making a curl to the decals that hinder application over sharply curved surfaces (when the curves oppose each other).

Don Stauffer

<SNIP>

One work around is to set the background color of your decal work to the color of the paint the decal will cover (if camouflage, good luck- probably not workable).  Now, two problems<SNIP>, and you get a slight white border the thickness of the decal sheet- thin but still noticable.  This has to be touched up after decals are applied.

<SNIP>

Don,

I agree with what you've posted but want to add - that slight white border left after cutting out the decal from white decal paper is the bane of modelers. One work around (pointed out to me by Paul Bradley - a stick'n'tissue modeler) is: If your decal has a  border around the white area, simply print a white decal (no color just a base) slightly smaller than your decal then print and apply a clear decal with proper colors over it. Presto - white border doesn't show. Hope it make sense. Yeah, a little more work but no need to try to touch up the finicky borders.

Bick

Don Stauffer

<SNIP>

One work around is to set the background color of your decal work to the color of the paint the decal will cover (if camouflage, good luck- probably not workable).  Now, two problems<SNIP>, and you get a slight white border the thickness of the decal sheet- thin but still noticable.  This has to be touched up after decals are applied.

<SNIP>

Don,

I agree with what you've posted but want to add - that slight white border left after cutting out the decal from white decal paper is the bane of modelers. One work around (pointed out to me by Paul Bradley - a stick'n'tissue modeler) is: If your decal has a  border around the white area, simply print a white decal (no color just a base) slightly smaller than your decal then print and apply a clear decal with proper colors over it. Presto - white border doesn't show. Hope it make sense. Yeah, a little more work but no need to try to touch up the finicky borders.

Actually, if you want a simple white design you do not even need to print.  Say you are doing a national star.  Just cut out a circle of the white decal paper and apply in normal manner.  Still, to me that is more work than touching up edge (I use a toothpick tip as a superfine brush).