Decal Silvering Help Please

Thank you all for the help. I think its just the decals because I had a smooth, glossy clear coat as a base, then I used both microset/microsol, and then I cut slits all over the decals followed by several more applications of microsol. While the finished product isn't perfect... at least its decent. About half the decals are fine, the other half has just enough silvering to make a noticeable difference in the base color. I find it odd because there seemed to be certain decals on the sheet that felt so much thinner than the others, went down better, and reacted to the setting solutions better than the other decals. Is there really that much variation between decals on the same sheet? Or maybe its just me...

If you're looking for a stronger solvent than MicroSol, try Solvaset.  I believe it is the strongest one on the market, so use care.

Although this is not likely to be the trouble you are having, here is a general warning.  Decal solvents are pretty tricky beasts to use. In general I try to use a setting solution first- it is much more forgiving. If setting solution just does not work then you have to resort to nuking them with the solvent.  

I have heard that new Revell decals are bothering some folks, I haven't had the problem yet myself.

Not all silvering means that you have air trapped .Some silvering is caused of poor quality make and the decal paper glue residue is not strong .If anyone remembers that a long time ago when you use kit decals that when you submerge them in water that you see residue float off the decal sheet.Then those decals give perfect silvering.Even then you can spray Matt non spar varnish to take care of the problem.

At times the revell kits have an almost Matt finish to their decals before yo apply them.You can have the best gloss surface and it still show through silvering.Well,To take care of this is to spray "flat clear" non spar varnish which is sold at local area stores and even on the internet.The varnish makes the silvering go away.A while back the railroad hobby had a product called "Decal Dulling Varnish"- which is the same as the Matt varnish I use.This varnish must follow the gloss version 1st then as a final use the flat .Ace brand is what I use.Must be a dust free area when working w/these products.I use a large drying booth for over night drying.The flat varnish is very tacky and three hrs after application you can use Pastels for weathering which settles in for a dazzling results that washes or pre-shading can't match.

Thanks Fly-n-hi, I've been using your suggestion the past week and it's been working great. It can be quite tedious, and I have to cut a LOT of tiny little slits in every decal but the finished effect is what I'm looking for. I appreciate the great advice

Try this:  Brush a little Micro Sol onto the decals and gently poke holes in the silvered areas with a fresh #11 blade.  Just be careful not to use so much pressure that you slice into the paint.