Applying hull markings with dry-transfer decals?

You can apply dry transfers with rubbing the transfer in w:a warm small cloth.The heat will make it real easy to lift off from the transfer.This is really good advice which most "so called" Master modelers don't know. Even the Armor side of the house.

Use frog tape as a guide then make sure of your positioning of the transfer.Its a one way ride to get the hang of it .also, have an extra set or more of dry transfers .Most ship Modelers have a large stash of transfers .Also, go on line to purchase them or GooGle it to get standard versions.Good luck.

Another good burnishing tool is a blunt paint brush handle. Just about anything with a hard, smooth, Blum end will work.

I use a nylon rod with a rounded end for applying DT.  A really polished metal rod is okay, but it must not have any sharp burrs or edges.  Those DTs are very thin and easy to scratch.  A handle from a plastic comb works well too.

I don't think so. I guess if the paint was really sloppy the transfer might have trouble sticking to it. But I've used them many times on flat paint.

I think the system was designed for the graphic arts fields, mainly for use on paper. (The best known company was Letraset. [Later edit: this infernal phone tried to change that to "ale trader."] Maybe it still is.) Twenty years ago you could walk into a university bookstore and pick from dozens of Letraset sheets in different fonts and sizes. Most artists and draftsman nowadays do their lettering with computers.

Do you need to use a gloss coat under the dry transfers?  I have only used them sparingly before and was able to apply Future in a small area.  Is that necessary since they do not have the carrier film?

Great info, thank you.

If they are indeed dry-transfers (and it sounds like they are), you've got it right. You'll need some sort of stylus, or burnisher. Hobby shops and drafting supply stores sell tools made for the purpose, bot a ballpoint pen will do the trick.

Peel the protective paper of the back, and hold the number exactly where you want it To be on themodel. Rub the burnisher gently over the number, being careful not to miss any spot. (The color of the number will change slightly as the number comes loose from the cover sheet.) Gently peel off the sheet. If you did it right, the number will stay on the model. Next, take the thin backing sheet that you removed from the back, lay it over the number, and burnish it vigorously. That does it.

It's always a good idea to spray dry transfers with some sort of fixative. Most of the usual flat finishes will work fine, but it's a good idea to do a test shot in some inconspicuous spot to be safe.

Dry transfers have a big advantage over water-slide decals: dry transfers have no carrier film. A dry transfer, carefully applied, will literally look like it was painted on. The drawback is that dry transfers can't be moved around on the surface. Unless you have duplicates, you only get one chance.

Hope that helps.