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old and faded decals

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  • Member since
    June 2010
old and faded decals
Posted by 5-high on Saturday, January 3, 2015 11:33 AM
I will stay away from old faded decals ....garbage ..should have known .the decal turned milky white ...for now on i buy or make my own ...my helldivers wrecked ...how do i fix this ..the future wont let me remove it ...milky sheen under it .....Man im p.o.ed
  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Saturday, January 3, 2015 12:08 PM
Future is a bad product to use.As you can see it gets milky and ruins the finish.Some modelers use it as a final gloss coat thinking they have a high solid shine.Think again;Not.Decal setting products often eat through future.Enamel and lacquer base products are the best to use.
  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Saturday, January 3, 2015 3:21 PM
Im takeing don stauffers advise ..every decal sheet i get for now on i make copies ..never again i.ll use old decals on old model kits . As for putting them in sun light ? I think once there in that shape there garbage ...not worth saving !!
  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Saturday, January 3, 2015 4:57 PM

How/why do you would you make "copies"?

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Saturday, January 3, 2015 8:07 PM

Like don said ,,if u goof up u have a back up . plus if u but a very old model like i did . At lest u have a back up or u can scan the crummy sheet on a blank sheet then fix it fast .and not worry about it falling apart as my,n did and wreck months of work in the end ...my 1/48 promodeler helldiver took 3 months of detailing ,,, and as foolishy I used the faded decals and wrecked months of work !!

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Saturday, January 3, 2015 8:28 PM

Hokey...please dont get me wrong .

im not into pirateing or copey infrigmint of any kind . im talking about old kit that one buys on say e-bay or privet collections and the decals are so old faded or britell that u cant used them . So please understand im not  that way ..5,hi

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, January 4, 2015 11:25 AM

Having a copy for making inkjet decals is better than nothing, but isn't always the entire solution.  Making dark decals to go over light finishes is easy with inkjet printing.  Making light colored decals to go over dark colored finishes IPITA. It is possible but takes someone very good in color matching between paint and artwork.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Sunday, January 4, 2015 1:30 PM
Ur right don ..and thats what im doing for now on ...if i did this in the first place ..no probs ...but u know the good deals ...(if can call.m that) its the old and rare decals i have probs with ..im just tired of saving garbage ..im better off buying the old kits and just trying to copey the old sheet ...oh and some times that dont work cuss the white is almost gone ...wont even show up . The sun in the window trick dont cut it .it breaks down the fixer
  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Sunday, January 4, 2015 3:01 PM

So, I am currently trying to finish a 1/144 space shuttle - old kit. The decal sheet is yellowed and curled. Can I use it to make new decals somehow?

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Sunday, January 4, 2015 8:42 PM
It depends how old the kit is ..what color do u think thay ar if the yellowing is on the hole sheet ..i mean the paper it self and the decals them self idiscolored (yellowey its to late to save it ..cuss the glue or fixer has shrunk cussing the paper to curl ..even u try to put in the sun the u.v brakes down the glue so as soon u dip it water in breaks the film ...try to scane it copey it then spray decal fix ....but i just dont trust old decals no more ..not worth it
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, January 5, 2015 9:02 AM

Now adays after scanning decals I try to use the most unimportant decal first.  Many sheets have the trademark, logos,, registration marks, etc.  as decals. I use some of these unneeded decals as tests. If decals shatter, I first try coating the decal with decal film. If that does not rescue them, then I resort to the inkjet process.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Monday, January 5, 2015 10:26 AM

Hello!

You could try a tool called glass fibre pen - they can sometimes be bought in electronics supply stores - to gently remove the finish coat by coat. This way you could remove the gloss and the decal underneath, but don't sand through the colour. The tool looks like this:

As for printing decals - I found a company nearby that would print decals for me and stopped looking for ways to do it myself. They print all colours, nice solid white and even silver and gold, and take designs in CorelDRAW - so I redraw decals in CorelDRAW and send them to be printed. OK, it's a lot of work, but you get the chance to refine the decals a little and if something bad happens ordering spares is easy.

Hope it helps, good luck with your project and post some photos - have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Monday, January 5, 2015 4:04 PM

Don Stauffer

Now adays after scanning decals I try to use the most unimportant decal first.  Many sheets have the trademark, logos,, registration marks, etc.  as decals. I use some of these unneeded decals as tests. If decals shatter, I first try coating the decal with decal film. If that does not rescue them, then I resort to the inkjet process.

Don can you elaborate on "decal film"? Is that like Solvaset? 

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Monday, January 5, 2015 10:58 PM
Hokey..theres four parts to a decal sheet one.s the paper backing ..then theres a tranfer flim .in witch thay silksceen the image on to .ether the ink is waterproof or thay seal it with a fixer ..if u ever have made ur own decals u.d notice that the decal u made is thick cuss of the mist of the rattel can i.e testers decal fix is not fine enough ...i like to shoot it airbrush cuss it gives a finer mist thus thiner decal ..the older the decal the film starts starchup thus curling up the paper andthe print ...and add water ...DISASTER!!
  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Monday, January 5, 2015 11:07 PM
And no solvaset is just that a solvent to soften the decal so it conforms to the detail of the serfus ur putting on ie...panel line ..rivetts ..decal set glues it ..imho..micro set is the best to us
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, January 6, 2015 9:10 AM

Hokey

Don Stauffer

Now adays after scanning decals I try to use the most unimportant decal first.  Many sheets have the trademark, logos,, registration marks, etc.  as decals. I use some of these unneeded decals as tests. If decals shatter, I first try coating the decal with decal film. If that does not rescue them, then I resort to the inkjet process.

Don can you elaborate on "decal film"? Is that like Solvaset? 

It is more like clear varnish.  Micro Scale offers small bottles of it- I think Testors may also.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Tuesday, January 6, 2015 9:23 PM
Today got home from cemo and. Looked at my helldiver ..so i tryed to float the decal off ..and it didnt work it shatterd in piecess i geuss the futur coating held fast and i dont have a back up .im sadend to have to put away till i order new decals ..but a lesson leard :'(
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