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Decal Terror

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  • Member since
    April 2015
Decal Terror
Posted by Mark Lookabaugh on Friday, July 31, 2015 9:38 PM

Finished putting on the decals for my Moebius Classic Battlestar about a week ago. 

There are several long thin stripes broken up by small spaces (the forward hull sides), all of which are on parts that are not smooth by any means.  Because of the tight parallel lines of the setting, any slight imperfection would make them look silly.  That was the warmup.  Then came the wrap-around pieces for the front and back of the launch bays.  These go all the way around cone shaped areas with large bumps every couple of millimeters.  Just to top it off, the decals for those were in one piece, but there was an area that needed to be trimmed out after it was in place.  What???

Even with Micro Set at hand, it was extremely difficult to get the things in exactly the right spot.  And then when applying Micro Sol with as slight and steady a hand as I could muster, some of them wanted to pop out of place.  Of course at that point things go crazy and I am panicking but trying to stay calm and nudge things around without tearing them in their delicate state.

In the end, they all got applied mostly to my satisfaction except for one, which was not save-able.  I bought another copy of the kit, and printed the decal set off onto printer decal paper this time just in case I messed up the second copy, which thankfully I did not.  So that kit is now in the stash, in case the Galactica needs a wingmate on the shelf some year in the future.

I didn't enjoy this process at all.  I felt like a gardner trying to do brain surgery.  It was tedious, un-fun, horribly demanding work that was definitely the low point of the kit because of the pressure I was putting on myself, and the difficulty involved.  The result was worth it in the end... but WOW.

So lesson learned, in the future, for really difficult decal sets, I'll print a back-up copy before I start, just to be safe.  Then I think it wouldn't have been such a big deal.  

Would love to hear about your most difficult decal experience.

Mark

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, August 1, 2015 12:11 AM

When they shatter into teeny, tiny little pieces.  By then, there's not much to be done but get another set of decals.

Sometimes I've had the decals break apart, but the pieces can be pushed back together.

Now, I keep a bottle of Microscale's Liquid Decal Film on hand for old and suspect decals.  A thin coating of the stuff is usually enough to prevent disaster.

Glad to hear that you conquered the monster this time, Mark!  Congratulations!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, August 1, 2015 12:30 AM

More importantly, decals are useful for things like type, complicated insignia etc. When doing simple shapes or lines, it's much better to paint the things. It looks so much better. Paint the model in the color of the stripe and then mask it off with tape. Tamiya tape is really great, it's flexible but sticky. Then over spray with the main color. I did my big Monogram B-36 and B-52  "no step" area stripes that way and it looked so much better than all of the decal pieces.

Once you get the hang of painting rather than decal for anything you feel up to, do it. Weathering afterwards is easier, and you can get the marking colors right.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Mark Lookabaugh on Saturday, August 1, 2015 2:01 AM

Checkmate, thanks for the tip!  I've actually been eyeing a couple of vintage models, so I'll be sure to have some Microscale Liquid Decal Film on hand when I try those.

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by Mark Lookabaugh on Saturday, August 1, 2015 2:04 AM

GMorrison, can definitely see the benefits to that like you said... especially with the weathering.  Will try that when I see an opportunity.  May take me a while to get my courage up, because masking at that level seems like an art in itself.  ;-)

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, August 1, 2015 2:21 AM

Good you will do it well.

A note. When you do add decal film or spray fix or whatever to old decals, then you have to cut out the decal exactly on the edge of the color, or no bigger than the original clear backer. Because what you've created with an overspray is one large decal.

A good way to do it. Make photo copies and a scan of the decal sheet. I always do and for the bigger stuff, cut out the image from the print, at 95%, and stick it down with tacky glue as a  mask over the primer where the decal will go when spraying on the camo or dark colors. You get a white or gray ghost where the decal will be. Much better color rendition that way.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Saturday, August 1, 2015 8:46 AM

Hello!

Decaling can be a lot of fun when you're lucky to have the right supplies - good decals, compatible chemistry (solvents) and clear coat (that doesn't melt the decals). With bad suplies it turns into a horror. Copying - or better, scanning the decals takes a lot of pressure out here. Recently I have built the Whale - an EKA-3B aircraft - and the kit decals showed an aircraft from a Med cruise, where I wanted a Vietnam machine - but they were similar. So I scanned the kit decals and altered them accordingly. The printed decals went on like a charm. Some of the original decals - Hasegawa - tried the wrinkling trick on me, so I was glad to have redrawn as many of them as I did. Replacing the decals that got lost is a great starter on creating your own decals, which then takes your modelling to an entirely new level.

Hope it helps - good luck with your projects and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, August 1, 2015 10:06 AM

For very long, narrow decals I cut them into segments at the start.  Yeah, you have to be careful to adjust position so there are no gaps, but I still find that easier than wrestling with a wiggly snake :-)

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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