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Bish I am a bit confused. Why would you use a clear during the decal application. The only thing i can think of is that some people use a drop of future to help decals setle down. Could this be what they are reffering to.
I am a bit confused. Why would you use a clear during the decal application. The only thing i can think of is that some people use a drop of future to help decals setle down. Could this be what they are reffering to.
Good point. I assumed the instructions considered sealing of decals after they are set and dry as part of applying the decals. I have never heard of using any other clearcoats other than future, during the actual application. Water and enamels do not mix well, neither do water and lacquers.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Not sure what synthetic clear refers to. In addition to acrylic clears, hobby suppliers have lacquer clears and enamel clears. I have used polyurethane clears from hardware stores but have not seen any hobby paints called polyurethane.
Hi all.
I hope I can get some info from somebody on here please.
I just bought a sheet of LF Models decals (Dunlop tyre logos for a Spitfire) and I noticed a prominent warning on the instruction sheet saying that one must use acrylic clear and not 'synthetic' clear during the decal application process.
My usual method is to use humbrol enamels for the tyres, then Tamiya TS13 gloss clear as a smooth decal base coat, then a setting solution, on top of which I usually apply testors Dullcote or Humbrol matt clear enamel.
Has anyone used LF Models decals before with non-acrylic clear coat?
Have the decals been OK?
Thank you for your help!
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