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Decal came off

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  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Pottsboro,Tx
Decal came off
Posted by Mars on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 2:33 PM

I put decals on a plane with Micro set and Micro sol. About 4 days later I was touching up some paint and a decal stuck to my finger and came off. Any idea what happened? It is an unpainted plane cast in aluminum colored plastic, I think.

  • Member since
    January, 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 4:09 PM

I'd guess a serious lack in adhesive!

Micro-set has given me issues in the past...so maybe there's "something" there???

I have completely given up on that stuff. I replaced it with "Future"...which I use in the same way that you would use micro-set...under the decal. If you have Future on hand, you could use that to put the decal back in place...if not, mix a little bit of white glue (or Testors clear parts glue) with a little water...brush it where the decal is to go, place decal, and dab out the excess.

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 6:26 PM

Just curious, but was this an Academy kit decal? The type not made by Cartograph? The same thing has happened to me with those. Like Fermis said, the easy fix is using Future. 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Pottsboro,Tx
Posted by Mars on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 8:31 PM

Yes it is Academy

 Thank you all

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 9:50 PM

Mars

Yes it is Academy

 Thank you all

 

Some of their decals have poor adhesion. Your answer for what happened to you is right there. If the kit has the Cartograph made decals, they're great. If the kit has Academy's own decals, it's a crapshoot. Some are decent, some are not.

 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 11:58 PM

Two other things.

Always scan the sheet. For personal use of course. You could color print the scans on good decal paper.

I think Micro set and sol are over used. Sure it's great for settling down over surface detail, but not always needed. It's always a good idea to test a decal you won't need, if possible, before going to town on the whole sheet.

 

  • Member since
    January, 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 6:00 AM

Academy decals...Angry

Ya may as well be using printed copy paper! Exaggerating a little, of course! I'll only use those if I can't get an aftermarket sheet or use use spares from the spares box. I find Academy's to be the worst, then Hasegawa, followed closely by Tamiya. Those companies do well with the kits, but their decals leave a lot to be desired!

  • Member since
    January, 2014
Posted by Silver on Sunday, June 18, 2017 11:48 AM

Apply decal over a gloss finish .Wait about 5 min.Then add a decal setting solution to the corners of the applied decal.Let dry for an over night time .Try not to touch the decal during the drying time.Seal w/ gloss .Then w/the desired final finish.Also, after market decals are your best bet.Kit decals are one of the poorest quality to work with.It works best w/enamels .Paint wise.Good luck.

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, August 17, 2017 6:59 AM

Just found this threa. I gave up on the Sol and Set products cause I find them to work some only on very thin decals. Even then requiring multiple application to get the decal to conform to irregular shapes.

I like Solvaset cause it works every time. It will melt the decal on to the surface and make it look like its painted on.

Future is great for attaching poorly bonded decals as previously mentioned. 

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