Before/After Decaling

You need to adda gloss coat first, so either 1 or 6. I don't know for sure what Testors Decal set is, but i am guessing the same as 2 and 3. You don't need all those. You can use Micro Set and juist use the Sol for difficult areas. Then once decals are on, you can seal with which ever you choose.

What Bish says.

If you're planning to use Micro Sol and Micro Set, you don't need to use Testors Decal Set. Wait for decals to be completely dry before applying a final clear coat to seal in the decals.

gloss- either Pledge or Glosscote

decals- just a little micro set if needed. 

dull- Dull cote.

Hello!

For me it works best to put a gloss coat on the model, then after it dries throughly the decals with the chemistry (Sol/Set or just Solvaset). Then I put another gloss coat on to even out the shine on all parts (decaled and non-decaled) and just then I mist on the flat clear. Hope it helps, good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

This is how I do it.

1: Glosscoat with Testor's

2: apply decals  a "FEW" at a time. Let them set for a few minutes and hit them with Solvaset. Allow them to dry before moving on to the next few decals. Repeat untill decals are all in place. that way your not grabbing a wet decal while trying to put another one on.

3: RE-apply solvaset if nessicary.

4: using a paper towel slightly moistend with lukewarm water, "GENTLY" wipe off exess Solvaset and decal glue untill no residue is left ( or as much as you can without tearing the decals )

5: Allow everything to dry "COMPLETELY" ! I usually let it dry for a day. Any moisture left will cause the following coat's to "blush " in spot's , making it look like scale bird's have used your model as a toilet. ( This does come in handy if your weatherizing farm machinery that's been sitting in the barn for a while. )

6: Glosscoat 1 or 2 light coat's to seal everything and hide the decal edge's.

7: Now is when I usually do any weathering.

8: now you can Dullcoat. 1or 2 light coat's should be enough but, let it dry and check. You may need another coat.

Hope this help's 

As you can see...different strokes for different folks!

I'll throw another one atchya!

Obviously, #1 is a good gloss coat, before your decals.

....I use Minwax clear gloss lacquer (basically the same as Testor gloss). I'm assuming you have a rattlecan. Spray a couple mist coats first. If ya get too heavy, too quickly...it'll wrinkle the paint underneath. I have had terrible luck with trying to use Future as a gloss coat...but there is a great use for it.

#2, "Set" is meant to go on the model, then the decal placed over it, while still wet. In my experience, even with a good gloss, I still had issues with "silvering". I have filed my "set" (micro-set) in the round bin under my bench. These days, I pour a bit of Future into a small plastic cup (like what you can get at McD's for ketchup). When the decal is ready to place, brush on a little Future (just where the decal is to go)...place decal, dab away the excess as you normally would. Sometimes, you'll get a little leftover residue...you next clear coat will make that disappear. After decals sets a couple minutes, brush on a little "Sol". This softens the decal. Some decals will wrinkle, but tend to go back to normal...gotta learn to just ignore it, DO NOT mess with it!!! Some decals will need several applications of "sol"...and some are almost completely impervious to the stuff ***cough***Tamiya, Academy, Hasegawa***cough***.

#3..decals done, set/cured...Another gloss over the decals is not a bad idea...followed by a "wash"...if you do such things.

#4..Dull coat

You may not need both the Micro Set and the Micro Sol.  Micro Set is good to use any time you are using decals.  It is pretty benign.  Decal solvents, like Micro Sol and others, actually partially desolve decals.  You must not handle the model until the solution is completely dry, or you can damage decals.  To avoid any possibility of damage, I only use decal solvent if they do not set right, and need something stronger than the decal setting solution.  I probably only need the solvent for about 10 to 20 percent of my decal sessions.

But it helps set and flatten the decal into every crevice. Yeah, it’ll wrinkle but DO NOT TOUCH IT! It will flatten itself out to a smooth finish.

I learned a lesson yesterday when using floor wax (I used Future), that its probably best to let it set for at least 24 hours if using deal solution. In the past, I always let topcoats set a day, but yesterday, I decided to skip the curing time and start applying decals.  The solution started to soften up the Future when trying to apply it after a few hours.  

Ditch the Testors decal solution, I think its pretty much vinegar and water.  Solvaset or the Microset/MicroSol products are much better.  

Just happen to be doing some decals tonight then read this. I used micro set and sol. The directions say 2part process using set then sol. But others here don’t seem to follow that always. So question - do you just use set to place and leave alone and use the sol afterwards if you need a little more setting power and adhesion?

Mrchntmarine

Just happen to be doing some decals tonight then read this. I used micro set and sol. The directions say 2part process using set then sol. But others here don’t seem to follow that always. So question - do you just use set to place and leave alone and use the sol afterwards if you need a little more setting power and adhesion?

 

Yep.  The important word is if.  As long as the decal goes down okay with just the setting solution, I leave it alone.  Usually on fairly flat surfaces that is enough.  Only on sharply curved surfaces do I find a need to go to solvents.

Little late getting back to posting this. I want to thank everyone for their advice on my original post. I finished the decaling just before Christmas and I am very pleased with how the decals came out. Thank you to all.