Problem making yellow decals

I have now finishe dthe build and wanted to update you guys on how it went. The decals came out great, though after the decal film and some paint they were a tad thick. The colour was also not a perfect match, but i hoped the weathering would deal with that.

Once weathered up, they came out really well. You can still see an edge on the right sid one, but i can live with that.

So all in all i was really pleased with these. Without those little yellow decals, the build would not have been what i had set out to build. So a huge thank you to you guys for the help and advice, its had really made a big differance.

I do need to learn how to print of better decals though, i have a few ideas which will need to be neater than these.

Glad it worked.

Glad to hear everything worked out!

Guys, a big thank you for the advice and suggestions. The decals have come out a treat. They were a bit thick when i put then on, probably down to painting ove rthem to get a better match for the colur and then two layers of decal film. But once they were applied i gave them a dab of future and then a coat of gloss varnish to protect them ffrom the washes. They now look a lot better.

I do need to read up more on making my own decals. This did come out a bit rough, but for this build that worked in my favour. And they have really made the difference, without them this build would not have been the subject i had planned.

I am now starting the weathering and will get some pics up at the weekend.

Thanks again, i knew you guys would have the answer.

How I did the "3".

gregbale

Unfortunately, you're 'up against it' for printing any light colors; if it's not done on white paper, the light part disappears, since inkjets can't print white ink.

Trimming close around the printed decal is the first option. My ususal go-to, when possible, is to print a color area surrounding the light markings that's close to the background color on the model: it makes close-trimming a little easier. (Even if it's not an exact color match--and that's a tough thing to get on home printers, I'll admit--it at least substantially minimizes the contrast that the viewer's eye would immediately be drawn to.)

If you're deft with a brush, it's not that hard to 'touch-up' paint around such markings...especially in larger scales. (Sometimes this needs to be done anyway, if the cut edge of the white decal paper is visible.) If circumstances allow, that's easier to do when the decal is still on the sheet, rather than after it's on the model. (Though sometimes there's no choice.)

Good luck!

[Just to show it is do-able...all the yellow lettering on this 1/72 Dauphin is printed with color surround matching the background, with no real 'touch up needed:

Hope it helps!]

 

In order to get as close as possible to the right background color, I make a sample of the paint I am using for the background, on a piece of scrap.  I then scan the color, and use the paint sampling function in my graphics program.  I then set that color as the background.

  I have never been able to calibrate a printer and scanner accurately enough so that the color is perfect, but it is always fairly close- close enough that one only needs to cut somewhat close to the image.  Black seems to be the exception.  I find black samples and prints accurately.  But with other background colors I have to do the paint sample thing.

Yes, the shapes were more commonly seen on overall OD AFVs before camo pattern painting was adopted in the 70s. And the style & size varied - sometimes outlines, sometime solid shapes.

I remember in the 80s before we started applying the markings on our camo painted vehicles, we used green “100 MPH” tape to make the symbols that we applied for field problems and removed afterwards. Later Battalion made stencils up and painted them on the vehicles.

On our vehicles, the markings were applied useing stencils we had cut out ourselves and we used a sponge to apply the paint through the stencil. So being GRUNTs they were never going to be works of art. No, the flat side was up, so it looked like it had rolled forward.

I had not realised you guys had used them as well.

Sounds good Bish. The rough looking insignia sounds more realistic. I take it that the ”D” Supt. Co. symbol is flat side down?

You guys have been using the geometric shapes tank insignia the longest. I think it dates to between the Wars. US Army usage didn’t really start until post war.  

Its a D that looks like its rolled over. The other companies use that same 4 symbols, i believe it dates back to at least WW2.

I think i have cracked it. For some reason the black did not print out to well on the white paper, but i have gone ove that and the green useing the same colours i use don the vehicle. looks a bit rough but thats actually a bonus for this. Just letting it dry, then add some decal film and see how it goes.

US Army uses, or has used a similar system, with variations of course. Circle, Square, Triangle, Diamond on the hull or turret sides and rear. Just curious, but what is the Support Company symbol?

stikpusher

How about yellow dry transfer letters and numbers onto the clear decal film? Find the correct style/font you need then arrange them on the decal film as needed.

 

Its not the number's that are the issue. In the British army, each company is assigned a symbol, the call sign numbers go inside this. I can find the symbols for HQ, A, B and C coy's but not the Support Coy.

How about yellow dry transfer letters and numbers onto the clear decal film? Find the correct style/font you need then arrange them on the decal film as needed.

Thanks GM. I ahve already painted the model and the numbers themselves are to small to mask. My fall back would be to brush paint.

Gregb is on it. The black one is pretty straightforward.

Another possibility is to paint the marking on the model with white, then apply the decal over it. For instance do the numbers with Tamiya tape over white primer in a "good enough" way, paint, unmask, then decal.

Bish

Thank you Greg, never thought of that. One of the yellow decals is on a black background the other on a dark green. I'll give that a go.

Since you mentioned the FV 432, I thought that might be the case...so I thought the above photo might be a useful example.

Look forward to seeing your 'wee beastie' when it's done!

Thank you Greg, never thought of that. One of the yellow decals is on a black background the other on a dark green. I'll give that a go.

Unfortunately, you're 'up against it' for printing any light colors; if it's not done on white paper, the light part disappears, since inkjets can't print white ink.

Trimming close around the printed decal is the first option. My ususal go-to, when possible, is to print a color area surrounding the light markings that's close to the background color on the model: it makes close-trimming a little easier. (Even if it's not an exact color match--and that's a tough thing to get on home printers, I'll admit--it at least substantially minimizes the contrast that the viewer's eye would immediately be drawn to.)

If you're deft with a brush, it's not that hard to 'touch-up' paint around such markings...especially in larger scales. (Sometimes this needs to be done anyway, if the cut edge of the white decal paper is visible.) If circumstances allow, that's easier to do when the decal is still on the sheet, rather than after it's on the model. (Though sometimes there's no choice.)

Good luck!

[Just to show it is do-able...all the yellow lettering on this 1/72 Dauphin is printed with color surround matching the background, with no real 'touch up needed:

Hope it helps!]

Andy, yes, i am useing the clear, and i did wounder if that might be a soloution. It would be a tricky one to cut out, so hopefully some one might have an idea, otherwise, i will have to get trimming.

Bish, I assume you are using the clear decal paper? From what I've read for yellow you need to use white decal paper (especially if it's going over a dark surface color). The obvious problem with this is having to trim all the white off the outline of the decal. Hopefully someone with more experience can help.