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Decal Disaster

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  • Member since
    July 2018
  • From: The Deep Woods
Posted by Tickmagnet on Saturday, June 8, 2019 7:51 AM

Bakster

Or could he mask and paint the lines in? Just wondering. 

 

My thoughts exactly why mess with a decal if you can paint it on.

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, June 8, 2019 6:47 AM

On deck markings like that, the sun UV and oxygen in the air causes them to fade.  You can dial paint flow with an airbrush and overcoat very thinly with the deck color.  Faded decals tend to not show imperfections as much as ones without an overcoat.

Also, for problem decals I put the decal, still on paper, in place, hold a corner and slip the backing paper out.  I put down setting solution first which helps slide the paper out.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, June 7, 2019 8:24 PM

That looks like a tough decal to work with on your first model, as mentioned above.

I have no advice beyond what's already been said to repair it, but maybe a couple ideas to help next time?

Make sure you are applying the decal over a nice shiny gloss coat.

Put a drop of liquid detergent in your waterslide decal tub. This will help keep the water from beading up and creating dry spots when you slide it onto your model. Oh, and use luke-warm water. I don't know why that helps but everybody recommends it and it seems to help.

Maybe try a decal positioning/setting solution like Microset. Sometimes this can bite you, I usually see if I can postion just with the water with drop of detergent first. Don't get confused and use a setting solution like Microsol. The nomenclature is confusing, be careful.

The idea is to give yourself time to gently postion the decal where you want it, especially important with a finicky decal like that one.

Sorry if you already know all that stuff, I have no way of knowing.

Here is an article from FSM 2014 that contains good decal basics, if needed. Scroll about half way down to get to the decal part.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Friday, June 7, 2019 4:49 PM

Or could he mask and paint the lines in? Just wondering. 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Friday, June 7, 2019 1:48 PM

For the solid lines get some white decal material and cut to size.  The triangular ones might be a little tougher unless you still have them.  Try to refloat the round one to reposition, but it looks pretty square as is.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, June 7, 2019 10:33 AM

I wouldn't assign yourself much blame. That doesn't seem like a very well designed decal.

I do think you can work with what's left there. Adding straight lines should not be hard.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    April 2019
  • From: Arizona
Decal Disaster
Posted by Allessio77 on Friday, June 7, 2019 9:54 AM

On my USS Fort Worth, I screwed up the decal transfer of the Heleocoptor Pad. Totally mangled the decal and could only salvage part of it

On a decal this large (2"x3") how do you get it over to the deck since it is only lines? Between the lines, btw, were the other decals. I cut them out first---was that my problem?

 

I have included a picture of my effort, and one done correctly by another forum member.

https://imgur.com/3Zv5Y2C

https://imgur.com/9AcZOM2

 

 

Tags: decals , ship

1ST ADULT MODEL 03/2019

Point Zero Airbrush PA-260 Nozzle Dia .3mm

Vallejo and Tamiya Paints

 

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