Micro Sol paintwork damage

From the way it's all spread out it looks like you are using way too much solution. Unless that happened as a result of attempted clean up. Is it directly on paint, if so what kind or did you clear coat first. If you clear coated what did you clear coat with? Not that I can help but this info would assist greatly.

From your photo, it looks like the damage is to your clear-coat, not your paintwork.

Not sure what you used, but acrylic clear-coats in particular can experience that kind of 'blush' or frosting with any decal-softener or setting solution (or anything else with H2O in it), under certain conditions.

Before you strip anything, try brushing a little of your clear-coat over the hazed area. Often that alone will restore the clarity of the area. (Happens all the time with the Future and Solvaset I use, and always disappears when a little more Future is brushed on.)

Good luck!

I'm wondering same as Tickmagnet; did you use a clear barrier coat?

Like Tojo, I've used Microsol for years with no problem, but always over a barrier clear coat (acrylic and solvent based, both). I have no idea what might happen directly on paint.

If you did use a clear coat, then I'd lean towards Greg Bale's comments.

Hope you get this sorted, late in the build is a discouraging time to have mishaps, isn't it?

I've used a Humbrol gloss coat. Seems ot be the done thing for the application of decals followed by a matt coat. Not had any success with decal solutions. Even applying directly to paint it still damages the finish. I've managed to correct this by dabbing the area with a cotton bud with the green paint and another layer of varnish over area. Not ideal. The one thing I can say for decal solutions is that I'm now becoming adept at restoration work. 

Thanks for your advice. 

Yeah it kind of looks like you used too much. I have experienced a similar issue when I used too much. As a result of that I apply solution only to the decal film, and not to the surrounding area. And like Tojo said, use it sparingly; you don’t need much for it work.

Lastly, I had seen some people reporting issues with Humbrol clear, paticulary when used to coat canopies and such. They are reporting a frosting effect. Could this be related, not sure. 

Pete North

I've used a Humbrol gloss coat. Seems ot be the done thing for the application of decals followed by a matt coat. Not had any success with decal solutions. Even applying directly to paint it still damages the finish. I've managed to correct this by dabbing the area with a cotton bud with the green paint and another layer of varnish over area. Not ideal. The one thing I can say for decal solutions is that I'm now becoming adept at restoration work. 

Thanks for your advice. 

 

If you get this happening again, shoot a layer of your clear gloss coat over the affected area. I have had a worse look than that with Solvaset and Future. I was told to apply another gloss coat over that, and boom, cleared it right up. The proceed to your final top coat: flat/matt, satin, semi gloss or gloss once you are ready.

Micro Sol or any solution will ruin surface applications if you use any future or glo products.Add a few drops of water to any decal settion solution before starting.If using enamel products.Let the enamel sealer dry for about a week Or longer.If the surface is tacky ,do not start.Polish the surface.

I'm really quite puzzled. Modellers seem to take the view that you have to do a gloss coat to apply decals. I've tried this technique four times now but it doesn't stop decal silvering with or without a decal solution. Microsol just left residues and Decalfix eats any paint. There has to be something that works? 

Hard to tell from the photos in this and the other thread you just started today, but your gloss coat doesn't look glossy. Is it? If perchance you are spraying it on too dry, you will end up with a pebbly finish that won't protect against silvering.

That said, this doesn't really look like silvering. It looks like what you are saying, the decal solution is attacking the underlying barrier coat.

Perhaps more to the point, how long are you letting that gloss barrier coat dry?

I consider decal solvents emergency tools.  Usually you do not need to use them.  However, if you do use them you must use them with care.  They can ruin a decal with the slightest mis-step.

Pete North

I'm really quite puzzled. Modellers seem to take the view that you have to do a gloss coat to apply decals. I've tried this technique four times now but it doesn't stop decal silvering with or without a decal solution. Microsol just left residues and Decalfix eats any paint. There has to be something that works? 

 

My next question for troubleshooting would be what decals are you using? Not all decals are alike in their quality. Some kit decals are pretty bad. Most Aftermarket decals are good, but again vary in different aspects. 

If you’re having no luck with traditional methods, you may want to try trimming off the clear edging film with an xacto. Slivering (That is visible) is just air bubbles trapped between the decal and the surface. Decal set over a glossy surface goes a long way to reducing or eliminating this. Blotting the decal down with a damp soft cloth after giving the setting solution time to work helps as well. Solvents do not need to be applied generally unless you have a complex surface underneath the decal- compound or complex curves, corrugations, louvres, etc. on a simple basic flat surface like the wing you showed above, there is really no need for a decal solvent. Setting solution and blotting should handle that job with no problem.