Interesting site. Every step of the process does not seem to me to be anything I've ever heard as do-it-yourself. EDIT- a number of Youtubes.

There are a lot of custom dry transfer sources on line, a quick look shows.

I have looked on-line.

But nothing quite like this.

And I am unclear how one could do this 'DIY'

Perhaps you could direct me to the sorces you know of.

Cheers

I still prefer the type of inkjet paper where you print on the front side.  Let's face it, the term decal paper is a misnomer- you print the decal on a transparent film, not on the actual paper.

I then need to stock two types, the clear and the white backed film.  I usually use those sold by Micro Mark or from Bare Metal foil.  Their films are pretty good stuff, and reasonably priced.

I find the vinyl type, whether you print on front or back side, too inflexible to cover compound curves.  I also find the vinyl film a bit too thick and harder to hide the edge.

Maybe this, Korean company and has a product 'Inkjet Rub-off Transfer Paper'

http://sunnyscopa.com/index.html

... and are found at  Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunnyscopa-Inkjet-Rub-off-Transfer-sheets/dp/B07945RL33

Certainly am curious how resilient the printed product is when handling, but I think it shares the same problem as regular waterslide decal paper - inkjets do not print white ink.

regards,

Jack

Thanks Jack.

That is getting there but not quite what (I thought) I wanted.

The paper that LBM uses seems such an obvious development that hunting it down should be quite easy but it is turning into a mystery!

I think you will discover, even after finding the type of film/paper you desire, there is still the problem of printing white.  Some have overcome this by purposely filling a cartridge with white ink, but the way printers are designed for the general public use, this will result in printing a sheet twice (referred to as  a double pass).  This then brings issues of colour registration.

You could avoid this by preparing the decal image area on the model with white paint.   This is all, of course, assuming you are considering making your own decals?

regards,

Jack

Counting the seconds until Graham G. heaves to and announces that we are all amateurs...

But you are correct. And decaling over white is a little tricky because the area of the image that is to show the white is hard to get truly clear. But, it can be done.

GMorrison

Counting the seconds until Graham G. heaves to and announces that we are all amateurs...

But you are correct. And decaling over white is a little tricky because the area of the image that is to show the white is hard to get truly clear. But, it can be done.

 

 

I find the films from MM andBMF very transparent with no shade of tint in areas not printed on.  Using a white decal under a clear one has worked quite well for me.

True enough. Where I struggle is not having my own drawing program. Too many years of having folks work for me who can do that.

So I depend on scannable or digital art that's color over white. Printing from graphics files is fine, but printing from scans is harder.

I have messed with the settings of both scanner and printer functions on my machine and have that figured out.

Bill

GMorrison

Counting the seconds until Graham G. heaves to and announces that we are all amateurs...

 

When you learn a little, ——— you feel like you know a lot.

But, when you learn a lot, ———— you realize you know very little.

89,880

Curious banter - maybe you two should get a room ;)

I have yet to try anything outside the norm of kit or AM decals so this is interesting.