Microscale Liquid Decal Film?

That's the right product. Another option would be Testor's Gloss Coat, but I'd start with the decal liquid. If possible, I always try to scan my decal sheets in the case of having to print new ones.

You'll have to trim right around the edge of the image, but that will probably work.

Good luck.

Bill

Thanks Bill! I'll give that a try then after I scan the decals. Do I understand correctly that after I apply the liquid decal film and it dries, I then have to cut out just the image? I'm guessing that will make handling the decal a bit tedious. Any advice on how to do that?

Ken

Generally the way those things are printed is that first a patch of clear film ever so slightly larger than the image is applied. That's followed by successive layers of ink in the colors required, or four color printed, and then a final patch of clear sealer is applied. 

When you apply the liquid decal film, you don't have that control so you'll overlap it onto the unprinted paper surrounding the decal, which will bond to it.

You often can see the edge of the decal film, esp. on older decals. You want to cut out the decal image inside of that edge. So you have a little room to maneuver. Take your Xacto and just carefully cut around the outside of the color image, not into it but close. You don't have to cut through the paper.

Bill,

Many thanks for the details on this. It makes sense to me now and I understand how to do it.  I'll use a couple of the decals I'm not using to practice with before I go back to the model.

Ken 

Hey guys.  I'm new to the forum.  I am also about to try and apply some old brittle decals and I'd like to try the decal film to hold them together.  My question is can this product be airbrushed onto large decals or does it have to be brushed.  If it can be airbrushed, should it be thinned and if so, what with?  Thanks.

That's a good question and I don't know the answer to it. The directions say to brush it on, and that is how I used it. At first I was concerned as it went on showing obvious brush streaks, but in a short time it smoothed out and dried very smooth. So for a large decal maybe using a larger flat brush is the answer. You may want to contract Micro Scale and ask them about application with an airbrush. If you find out anything in this regard, let us know.

On Microscale's web page they say cleanup/ thin with isopropyl alchohol.

I've never airbrushed it because I don't usually use too much, but I've airbrushed Future floor finish for the same use.

My other go-to is Testor's Decal Bonder. It comes in a little rattle can.

If you can, always scan older decal sheets before use. Sometimes that works the best, making new copies.

If they are yellow, tape them up in a sunny window, being careful that they don't come into contact with condensation on the glass. After a couple of weeks, they usually return to white.

Thanks for the information on using isopropyl alcohol for thinning. It will certainly be useful for cleaning up brushes after using them to apply the liquid decal film. I may try to thin some of the stuff with the alcohol and see how it works with my airbrush on some scrap decals. My guess is that several coats will be needed to get a thick enough layer to get the desired effect.

GMorrison

Generally the way those things are printed is that first a patch of clear film ever so slightly larger than the image is applied. That's followed by successive layers of ink in the colors required, or four color printed, and then a final patch of clear sealer is applied. 

When you apply the liquid decal film, you don't have that control so you'll overlap it onto the unprinted paper surrounding the decal, which will bond to it.

You often can see the edge of the decal film, esp. on older decals. You want to cut out the decal image inside of that edge. So you have a little room to maneuver. Take your Xacto and just carefully cut around the outside of the color image, not into it but close. You don't have to cut through the paper.

 

 

I always use a scalpel for trimming decals, and also Tamiya tape when masking canopies and greenhouses.  I find it sharper than X-acto blades.  I save it just for those uses, but actually scalpels and blades are no more expensive than modeling knives.  The blades are even cheaper than X-acto blades.  I think in the medical profession the scalpels and blades are discarded after every use, so they are produced in great quantity.  They are packaged in quantities of 50 or 100.  A package is about six bucks.

Don Stauffer

 

 

GMorrison

Generally the way those things are printed is that first a patch of clear film ever so slightly larger than the image is applied. That's followed by successive layers of ink in the colors required, or four color printed, and then a final patch of clear sealer is applied. 

When you apply the liquid decal film, you don't have that control so you'll overlap it onto the unprinted paper surrounding the decal, which will bond to it.

You often can see the edge of the decal film, esp. on older decals. You want to cut out the decal image inside of that edge. So you have a little room to maneuver. Take your Xacto and just carefully cut around the outside of the color image, not into it but close. You don't have to cut through the paper.

 

 

 

 

 

I always use a scalpel for trimming decals, and also Tamiya tape when masking canopies and greenhouses.  I find it sharper than X-acto blades.  I save it just for those uses, but actually scalpels and blades are no more expensive than modeling knives.  The blades are even cheaper than X-acto blades.  I think in the medical profession the scalpels and blades are discarded after every use, so they are produced in great quantity.  They are packaged in quantities of 50 or 100.  A package is about six bucks.

 

Do you have a link to your preferred place for these blades/scalpels?

I use Amazon.

Don Stauffer

I always use a scalpel for trimming decals, and also Tamiya tape when masking canopies and greenhouses.  I find it sharper than X-acto blades.  I save it just for those uses, but actually scalpels and blades are no more expensive than modeling knives.  The blades are even cheaper than X-acto blades.  I think in the medical profession the scalpels and blades are discarded after every use, so they are produced in great quantity.  They are packaged in quantities of 50 or 100.  A package is about six bucks.

 

I'm terrified of scalpel blades. One of my classmates in Architecture school swore by them but I was scared of them.

Now that I'm on Plavix I am very careful even with the Xacto.

The only thing that scares me more in the sharpie world is my kitchen mandoline.

GMorrison

 

 

Don Stauffer

I always use a scalpel for trimming decals, and also Tamiya tape when masking canopies and greenhouses.  I find it sharper than X-acto blades.  I save it just for those uses, but actually scalpels and blades are no more expensive than modeling knives.  The blades are even cheaper than X-acto blades.  I think in the medical profession the scalpels and blades are discarded after every use, so they are produced in great quantity.  They are packaged in quantities of 50 or 100.  A package is about six bucks.

 

 

 

 

A package of 100 Xacto blades is about $ 35- $ 40.

 

I'm terrified of scalpel blades. One of my classmates in Architecture school swore by them but I was scared of them.

Now that I'm on Plavix I am very careful even with the Xacto.

The only thing that scares me more in the sharpie world is my kitchen mandoline.

 

I'm on Plavix too.  Two weeks ago I trimmed my fingernail with a table saw.  Took off the tip of the nail and the tinyest bit of the fingertip.  Hurt like the devil for two weeks but it is now healing fine.  I still cut myself working on models, but while it bleeds a little longer than it used to, but it has not been a problem.  Bruise so easily, though.  That is a bigger concern to me than cuts.  I am getting dialysis and my upper arm is black and blue.

Oh yes. The joys of Plavix. One paper cut and bleed like a "Stuck 'hog". I've been on it with 81 mg of Baby Aspirin ever since I had a stent put in me. I'm super careful with sharp objects. I'm not overly impressed with Decal Restorer from Microscale. I still prefer air brushing Gloss Coat over them.

Was on it after 3 stents.  My VA doc freaked when he found out I had been on it for over 2 years along with 325 aspirin.  Normally only supposed to take for a year, depending.