Copying and making decals

GMorrison

So many parameters, when you get your set up to work, write it down.

DPI of scan.

Type of decal paper.

Paper type settings on both PC and printer.

Print quality settings on both.

Relative printer temperature.

Enlarge/ reduce Settings.

 

Bill

 

 

I always use the high quality setting on decals.  I see no need to use standard.

So many parameters, when you get your set up to work, write it down.

DPI of scan.

Type of decal paper.

Paper type settings on both PC and printer.

Print quality settings on both.

Relative printer temperature.

Enlarge/ reduce Settings.

Bill

A scanner is a real help. I tweek my decal files in Adobe Illustrator.

I have an inkjet printer and it does help to give it a couple of days to dry.

Try to get a setting where if you are scanning decal sheets, eliminate or minimize the blue background of the paper.

I realize that wasn't the question, but tips help.

1. Create art file in drawing programm, by scanning a decal sheet, by using a photograph or etc.

2. Print on plain paper enough times to get the size, resolution, color as good as possible. 

3. Print once more on plain paper fed through the manual feeder if that's how your machine works, or from paper tray. Mark that page so you can mimic orientation and which side is up.

4. Take that last print and cut a piece of decal paper large enough to cover the image you want to make into a decal and tape it down along the leading edge, outside the image area.

5. Print on that. The idea is to not have to use a whole decal sheet because it doesn't really work to print repeatedly on the same paper -and saves decal film.

6. I'll let them dry for a couple of days.

7. Spray with a very thin coat of Testors Decal Bonder. One coat should work, you will find out.

One parameter of many- my machine prints better when it's cold.

Bill

Eaglecash867

Microsoft Windows applications are well-known for bypassing printer driver settings.  The entire line of Microsoft Office products does that, and its something that Microsoft actually proudly announces as some kind of "convenience" feature.  Products made by other software companies generally leave driver settings as they are, which is why I made the recommendation. 

I happily avoid that entire mess, and size my decals by pasting the large-size art as an image into Open Office, then 'drag' down to the proper size with no loss of resolution. I long ago discovered that the 104% zoom view on my laptop's screen is the 'real world' print size...so size-checking against the model is dead-easy with an actual ruler.

Saves a lot of time and frustration.

Microsoft Windows applications are well-known for bypassing printer driver settings.  The entire line of Microsoft Office products does that, and its something that Microsoft actually proudly announces as some kind of "convenience" feature.  Products made by other software companies generally leave driver settings as they are, which is why I made the recommendation. 

I find the printer's driver (created by the printer mfg) has far more effect on sizing than Window.  One must take care to tell the driver how to size.  Usually you must stay away fron the fit to page option in the driver.

0

Sunnyscopa laser decal paper doesn't need a clearcoat when used with a laser printer, and you can use the decals right after you print them.  Used it to make custom-designed panel decals for my Frog project.

In addition to a good printer and good paper for the correct printer type, a good scanner is also a great thing to have.  I have an old Canon MG8120 that I use for converting film photo negatives to digital pics.  The printer part of it became too costly to feed, but it has a 1200 dpi film scanner in it, so its great for decals.

For printing/designing/editing/re-scaling decal scans, I'm using a freeware photo editor from France called Fotofiltre.  Makes it really easy to bypass all of the Windows 10 BS that messes with the size of the photo sometimes when you print it.  Just keep in mind that designing your own decals with lettering and numbers on them will require something better than a freeware photo editor like what I use for scans.  For that, you'll need an editor that is vector-based.

Those are the basics.  Figuring out how to get it all done in a way that works best for you is just going to take experimentation.  You'll also need to experiment with which type of decal paper works best for a given color situation.  White decal paper is the most versatile because your printed decals will be nice and opaque and bright.  The drawback to those is that you really have to be precise about trimming away the white carrier film around the edges of your decal.  Clear paper doesn't require as much precision, but it has to be applied to a light-colored background or the decal's colors don't show.

If the decals you have are the desired scale already, all you need do is copy the file, then print them out.  The decal sheets must be compatible- inkjet printer for injet decal paper and laser printer for laser decal sheets.

Both types need an overcoat. Personally I use Testors clearcoats but many others work.  Inkjet inks dry slowly- allow a couple days.  All the decals will be a single decal on the sheet.  You must carefully cut them out and then treat as a normal decal.  I now scan all my decal sheets from kits in case I mess one up applying it.  This has serve me well a number of times.

Also, scan down the threads in this forum for older threads- much has been posted here on making your own decals.