Dumb questions about applying decals

Broadly speaking, you are correct. US Armour would have markings on both sides.

USAF aircraft of the time wouldn't have symetrical markings on the top & underneath of the wings.

Traditionally, Decalling is: paint model, apply gloss*, then decals, use Microscale Sol/Set as per instructions, cleanup, and gloss again, then mat or satin finish.

*Gloss where decals go or whole model.

Microsol can be used on any surface.  The key is to apply it to the decal quickly and gently, and then leave the decal alone while the Microsol works.  You don't want to keep dabbing at it or trying to smooth out the wrinkles that form.  The wrinkles go away on their own.

I only apply decal solvent if setting solution is not enough.  Take the term solvent literally.  Use as a last resort and work very gently.

As far as locating decals and selecting colors, if you have any doubts about what the kit instructions show, do a little research. Tou'll be surprised by some details.

Bill

GMorrison

As far as locating decals and selecting colors, if you have any doubts about what the kit instructions show, do a little research. Tou'll be surprised by some details.

Bill

With armored vehicles in particular, markings may often be assymmetric from side to side due to projections or equipment stowage. As Bill said, a little research or something like a Google image search will often turn up views or at least diagrams showing useful markings placement.

Cheers

Decals can be very difficult to apply. I think I was better at it as a beginner than I am now! Large ones or very small ones are the worst — I've ruined more decals than I care to count. Now, before applying any decals, I first scan the sheets of decals at high resolution and a 1:1 ratio. If you have either an ink jet printer or a colour laser printer, you can print them on decal stock, available from many different companies. I use Experts Choice, and I have a pack of sheets by Kodiak that I haven't yet tried.

To prevent the ink from running while the decals soak, you have to thoroughly pre-coat them with clear acrylic or lacquer spray.

The only real problem with DIY decals is that you have to use white decal sheets on dark surfaces. If you use clear decal sheets, the dark surface beneath will mute the colours of the decal. But using white decal paper means that you have to trim the decal carefully to avoid having the white substrate show on the model. I've had reasonably good luck painting over the remaining white part of the decal with paint matching the colour of the model.

Bob

rocketman2000

I only apply decal solvent if setting solution is not enough.  Take the term solvent literally.  Use as a last resort and work very gently.

 

 

This Tamyia car kit has numerous decals simulating carbon fiber. First I tried MicroSet to help the decals conform the the curved surfaces. That didn't work. Next I tried Tamyia's Mark Fit which soltened the decals enough the conform to the curved surfaces. The Mark Fit is not as aggressive as MicroSol.

Curious. When you say gloss again before mat or satin or dull coat in my case, is there some benefit involved by going over them with gloss again?

Jon_a_its

Broadly speaking, you are correct. US Armour would have markings on both sides.

USAF aircraft of the time wouldn't have symetrical markings on the top & underneath of the wings.

Traditionally, Decalling is: paint model, apply gloss*, then decals, use Microscale Sol/Set as per instructions, cleanup, and gloss again, then mat or satin finish.

*Gloss where decals go or whole model.