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I learned an important lesson about using DIY decals. Taking a close look at some red cross decals that I had printed, using Kodiak-brand clear decal material, on the model of the hospital ship U.S.S. Repose that I am building, I noticed that one of them had rough edges. It was clear that the soft paint brush I had used to position the decals had damaged them; the problem was that I had trimmed the red crosses right up to the red, which left the extremely fragile decal film vulnerable to damage.
I removed the decal (not easy — those decals are tough once the adhesive has dried) and cut out another one, leaving perhaps a .5mm border of clear decal film. It went on without a problem, and the clear border — undamaged! — is virtually invisible.
Bob
On the bench: A diorama to illustrate the crash of a Beech T-34B Mentor which I survived in 1962 (I'm using Minicraft's 1/48 model of the Mentor), and a Pegasus model of the submarine Nautilus of 20,000 Leagues Under the Seas fame.
Or,
so many factors that need to be resolved for home brew decals.
Save you settings.
I let my prints on decal paper dry a week.
I put on decal film spray in the single pass in the air and wave the sheet through it, maybe three times with a day in between each.
I do not like any setting solutions but after a week or so I will seal them with some clear like Future.
Bill
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
BTW Bob, you are certainly no longer a newbie.
Not my call although I would certainly say so, but it's a proven thing.
Your ship is a very fine model.
GMorrison BTW Bob, you are certainly no longer a newbie. Not my call although I would certainly say so, but it's a proven thing. Your ship is a very fine model. Bill
Thanks, Bill, but I feel like a newbie!
I normally spray my decals with three coats of clear Tamiya spray, waiting a few hours for each coat to dry, and then apply them a few days later. The red cross decals had a good two months to dry. I'm pretty sure that the damage resulted from cutting them too close.
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