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I'm using MRP lacquers now, almost exclusively, and the majority of those are semi-gloss which eliminates the need for a gloss clearcoat before decals go on. After decals, I'll usually use their semi-gloss clearcoat to protect the decals for weathering...do my weathering/washes...and then put on their matte clearcoat. If the decals I'm using are really thick, I'll usually do a clearcoat with Gauzy Agent Shine Enhancer after the decals go on. That stuff just has a natural tendency to settle in a nice beveled edge along the edges of the thicker decals and does a pretty good job of hiding them. After that, the sequence is the same.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
fox I use Vallejo Air a lot as I like WWI & WWII planes. I always put a coat of gloss down before decals to prevent silvering and after to protect the decals. Then a coat of Dullcoat to flatten it. Jim Stay Safe.
I use Vallejo Air a lot as I like WWI & WWII planes. I always put a coat of gloss down before decals to prevent silvering and after to protect the decals. Then a coat of Dullcoat to flatten it.
Jim
Stay Safe.
That's what I ended up doing. I used a Vallejo gloss clear rattle can, didn't come out as good as I would have liked, but for a first go-round, I'll live with it. I bought one of the tiny 17 ml bottle of clear gloss at HL (5 bucks for that tiny thing!) and did a few test shoots on some plastic spoons. Sooner or later I'll get the hang of it, but it's been, and still is a learning experience with acrylic paint!
Main WIP:
On the Bench: Artesania Latina (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II
I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.
I add a step sometimes. If the decal is a simple shape as opposed to individual letters; I use white primer and makk an area a tiny bit smaller than the decal. Then I go about the business of finish coats. I remove the mask, add gloss to the decal are, or the whole thing and put down the decal.
IMO it has to be on very smooth paint or "silvering", which really ruins a model; is guaranteed, at least for this modeler.
Bill
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
@ greg and tojo, thank you both for your replies. Greg, further to your post, as I mentioned, it's a japanese Zero, and it is indeed light grey. I have just a bit more painting to do, and then it looks like I'll be off to glossy-land! Thanks again guys!
There are some different processes that some use,but I will always lay down a gloss coat to apply decals.I usually use Alclad Aqua Gloss,or Vallejo Gloss.Simple and works for me.
There are those who will argue it both ways -- as with pretty much every issue in life -- but I've always found a gloss surface vastly more trouble-reducing for applying decals, whether with acrylics or enamels. (These days I use Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively.) As you noted, adhesion overall is generally better, with far less threat of 'silvering' (usually due to air bubbles trapped beneath the decal film).
Some prefer an overall gloss just in principle, while some only apply it where decals are to go. I've done both with little difference between them...except over white or light greys; with those it seems just a 'spot' glossing may be a bit more visible, at least at some angles, even under a final finish coat. But, as the old saying goes, "Your mileage may vary...."
Cheers
Greg
George Lewis:
Well, not really a newbie, been building models on and off for about 50 years now. But so much has changed, and with the internet resources, I'm just overloaded with information. So here's my issue: I have, for the first time ever, airbrushed a model with acrylic paint. Vallejo Air to be exact, and even attempted a little preshading. It's not horrible, but I still need LOTS of practice! LOL Anyway, the paint is not glossy, and I've always understood that decals should be applied to smooth, glossy surfaces for better adhesion. Does this hold true with acrylic painted surfaces, should I lay down a coat of gloss first? Any and all suggestions and advice are appreciated. And BTW, the subject is a 1/48 Tamiya Zero.
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