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Mcv1015 I had run that idea through my head as well. Probably the way to go. Masking the "HEMI" lettering will be tedious. I wasn't going the 2k route but I saw a cuda at a car show in a slightly darker plum crazy with 2k. Beautiful car
I had run that idea through my head as well. Probably the way to go. Masking the "HEMI" lettering will be tedious. I wasn't going the 2k route but I saw a cuda at a car show in a slightly darker plum crazy with 2k. Beautiful car
To make masking a little less tedious, you could scan the decal sheet and print it on a sheet of paper you could use as a cutting stencil. Then use some removable double-sided Scotch tape to temporily stick the cutting stencil to a piece of Tamiya masking sheet and use a #11 blade (and a steel ruler where needed) to cut out the decal shapes in the masking sheet. Then its just a matter of laying the masking sheet down so just the decals are exposed for the flatter clearcoat. If there's a decal close to the area you're currently masking, you can give that extra protection against the masking sheet using toothpaste. The toothpaste will keep the masking paper adhesive from touching the adjacent decals so they don't accidentally get lifted off. After you're all done, a little gentle wiping with a semi-wet sponge will wash the toothpaste completely off without damaging anything. Used that method just recently for masking wing leading edges for painting them with simulated corrogard, and it protected the decals that were already nearby.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
Some brands of clear coats are available in bottles or cans for hand brushing.
That's a tricky one. The decals from the factory were flat and the paint was single stage, so the 2K is WAY beyond better than factory. You can apply the decals over the 2k and it would look perfect. Only issue is over time those decals can let go and flake off. That is the reason we clear over decals is to keep them from lifting over time.
My 2 cents is to 2k the decals on and then mask the decal area off and dull coat or semigloss coat over just the decals to get the look. That would solve the problem of the lifting and is the course I would use. More work, but good models have many many layers of work to get the desired end result. Quick is usually quite evident.
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I am in early stages of a revell 71 cuda. I am scratching my head on how best to make the rear quarter panel decals matte finish without a final spray of matte. First thought is to apply a matte clear over decal before applying to kit. Krylon ultra matte or similar. Thoughts?
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