Decalling Screw Up

I believe Micro-Sol is a solvent and it softens everything on a model. Once I get a decal in position I apply the solvent I leave it alone for a day. The decal and the paint fuse together and become permanently bonded to each other. When you tried to reposition the decal it had already fuse to the paint.

I'm really scared of using the decal solvents. I put the solvent only after the decal is in position. And when I use the solvents I brush it on only around the edges of the decal trying not to touch the paint. After the brush around I put a layer of the decal solvent on top of the decal. Then l leave it alone for a day.

I think the Poly-S Decal Solution is strong stuff. Badger Decal Softening Solution is weaker and easier to control.

QUOTE: Originally posted by roosterfish I'm really scared of using the decal solvents. I put the solvent only after the decal is in position. And when I use the solvents I brush it on only around the edges of the decal trying not to touch the paint.

Will it really work without the solvent "foundation"? Can you just apply it on top of the decal? Will it soak through it and bond with the paint?

MonsterZero, you did it correctly if you used Micro Set. However, Micro Sol should only be used once the decal is in position. Some decals, especially those made in Eastern Europe, can be very tenacious and difficult to move once applied to the model. I have had the same unpleasant result as you. Here is a tip from several European modelers. After applying the Micro Set, wet your finger with a little saliva and mix the saliva into the Micro Set. I know it sounds kinda gross, but it does solve the problem. I do this now on any East European Kit, Eduard, Czech Model, Gavia,etc. and have never had a repeat of the recalcitrant decal.

I figure if the decal "melted" the decal and enough decal solution was put on then the solvent would also melt down into the paint. Just enough of the solvent melts to the paint to stick the decal to it but not enough solvent works its way into the paint to discolor. The edges of the decal melt enough to smooth out and when I put a sealer coat over the dried decals you can't see the decal edges.

You can also avoid the pre-mature micro-set issue if you simply make sure that the decal is pretty wet when you apply it. The water will dilute the micro set just enough so that it retards the bonding process enough for you to manipulate the decal.

The "spit" technique works on the same principle.

I've also found that you can sometimes work the bristles (soaked first in micro-set) of a fine haired brush under the decals if they set pre-maturely. This only works in the first minute or so. After that, you are most likely stuck.

When I'm applying a thin decal with micro-set, I use a brush (dipped in micro-set or water) to manipulate the decal until I get it into a position I'm satisfied with. This also helps keep things lubricated.

I agree with Vinnie.

You can put a good drop of water on the decal and "float" it around to where you want it with a sable brush and then lightly dab it with a moist Q-tip or Kleenex wrapped around a finger. After the excess water is soaked up then apply some Micro Sol or Set over the top of it.

Mike

Mike that's same method I've used for years. Works 98% of the time.
Only time it gave me problems was with old ESCI decals.. They need way too much work to set in ... I only use them when I have to..( never)

QUOTE: Originally posted by butchy Mike that's same method I've used for years. Works 98% of the time.

Butch,

I agree.
It is really the only method you can use if you need to move a large decal such as fuselage bands on something like the VNAF Skyraider checkerboard decal I put on.
This decal is about 1" wide and 2-1/2" long, so if it is not positioned correctly then you have to wet it good, float it to where you want with a soft paint brush and then dab the excess water. It can be nerve-racking sometimes but I have learned to really enjoy doing decals. Maybe I'm weird.

Mike

Mike, I guess were both weird cause decaling is my favorite part of a build. It's when the model comes to life and takes on the persona of the real bird being replicated.

QUOTE: Originally posted by rjkplasticmod Mike, I guess were both weird cause decaling is my favorite part of a build. It's when the model comes to life and takes on the persona of the real bird being replicated.

Thanks Rick.

I am honored to be in such good company then.

Mike

I must agree that decalling is the most rewarding phase of the project because that's the first time the model truly becomes the real thing.

Oh man oh man!...I just can't wait to get up to the decaling. For me it is the most enjoyable time of building models. Just finished the F11F-1 Tiger 'Blue Angel' and that was a nerve wracking pile of great fun.