Please help with BAD silvering problem

Jaybee,

It sounds like you aren't putting the clear coat on wet enough, or fast enough. If you have a grainy surface under the decal that will cause silvering. microsol may help, depending on the decal & surface.

There's a way to remove the air bubbles, but it can be a slow process: use a very new and sharp needed to pinprick all over the decal (at least the transparent areas) then apply Microsol over the decal. You may need to repeat the process a few times before you get rid of all the silvering, but it does work for me!

Also, in the future, you may want to apply a drop of Future/Klaer/Whatever onto the exact spot where you apply the decal. That will help tremendously. However, only use this on smooth 'easy' surfaces. For rougher surfaces, use Microset/Microsol over the dried gloss coat.

Desert Fox, how do you use pledge on canopies? I accidently got some on my uh-60 canopy and it went all cloudy?

Snowy, my problem is exactly the same as the one you had - the plege does not seem to create a smooth surface, but rather like a very fine grain.

Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it.

Cheers!

Hey,
I've got a slivering problem and it's not due to the paint coat on my models. It's due to decal age and dryness(I live in Arizona....bleah!). I've heard that one can coat the deals to bring them back to life while still on their origional paper but I'm not sure of the product or process.
Tips any one?

jaybee, if the Pledge surface is smooth and shiny this sounds like the ideal surface to apply your decals. I have used Pledge One Go a fair bit and have only had one issue with it and that was trying to get a smooth glossy finish. But you don't seem to have this problem. Are you putting some Micro set (The blue bottle) solution on the surface before you place the decals? This is designed to help break the surface tension of the water film and allow the trapped air to more easily escape from under the decal. It also softens the decal slightly and helps it conform and stick to the surface. If you truely have "Silvering" it can only be trapped air under the decal film, somehow not getting out,(to the best of my knowledge). You could also try putting a drop of dishwasing liquid into your decal water and this will also help lower the surface tension. Sorry I can't be more help mate.

Cheers...Snowy

I used pledge on a Revell model and had no silvering of the decals but I did the same thing with my Academy 1/72 P40 Warhawk and got silvering on quite a few. I too am still experimenting but I really like how well the canopys come up after being dipped in pledge.

QUOTE: Originally posted by neudog I dont know about Australia but here in NZ Johnsons "Klear" is the Future equivalent.

Thanks for the tip about Kear. i'll have a look at the supermarket tonight. i love acadey kits but hate their decals. they break too easily, especially if you're trying to mould them around fuselages etc. i also find they don't stick too well, even using micro set and micro sol.

we should send a petition to academy and tell them about the situation. i've had 30 year frog decals work better than new academy ones!

I dont know about Australia but here in NZ Johnsons "Klear" is the Future equivalent. I do know that oz gets a lot of the same consumer products as NZ and they often have the same names, ie. Watties, and we definitly get pledge here. I found mine at the supermarket for about 10$nzd.I notice people from blighty call it Klear as well (Maybe Klear is one benefit of dominion status). Anyway i would bet that klear can be found in OZ. Also i just finished academy's panzer iv; the decals were really silvery and crumbled easily. For that reason i wouldnt buy academy again unless i had to.
Good Luck.

Woody, the problem I am having with the decals is silvering. The clouding problem is what happend to the clear plastic of the canopy when I got some plege on it.

Thanks for all your responses guys - I appreciate it.

Cheers!

Is your problem silvering or clouding? Silvering is caused by tiny bubbles trapped under the decal. Clouding is caused by moister trapped in the Future. To avoid silvering place a little Elmers glue in your decal water. To avoid clouding only apply the finish when the humidity isn't too high and allow plenty of drying time after applying the Future, at least 24 hours. I like to set it aside for two days.

It's not likely to be the Pledge re acting with the decals.
I've used it quite a few times with both OEM and aftermarket decals and have not had any silvering problems.

I assume there are some left over decals, or even carrier film from the sheet, give these a go on some scrap plastic, this will let you know if the decals are sub standard.

Failing this, it may be a good idea to locate some aftermarket decals, and strip your old ones off.
I have never heard of a way to repair silvered decals, and so far have never had to try and find out.
Touch wood.

I use Pledge on all my clear parts, and never had one go cloudy.
If it's possible, apply some more Pledge onto your canopy, and it will 'undo' the cloudy section.
Or use some Windex, this dissolves the Pledge, just apply it with a cotton bud.

Don't dismiss the miracle work that Pledge can perform.
Even my dull coats come up a treat after mixing Pledge with flat base.

Thats right Swanny, aparently Pledge is the only alternative to future down here, but not exactly the same. I'm a bit sceptical about it - from what I've heard future performs all sorts of wonders on models, but I am yet to see anything convincing from pledge. All I know is that the surface it creates doesn't seem to be completly smooth, and that if you get it on a clear part it goes all cloudy and horrible. I got some on my UH-60 canopy and it looks like crap - I don't know what to do about that either!

Down Under Pledge One Go is Future, I'm sure this is what he is refering to. As to the silvering problem I cannot offer any helpful advice.

hhhhmmmmmmmm.................
as a matter of course, i've always used the clear top coat (prior to decalling) of the same brand as the paint applied to the model.............regardless of brand or type (enamal or acrylic)....as IAW the manufacturers recommendations..........and i've never been bitten.
maybe apply the "Pledge" as a top coat after the decals are applied......for let say doing a wash or as a sealing coat...........but, i think i'd stick to Tamyia paints then Tamiya clear top coat then decals..........
good luck............and be patient........it's all good

Thanks for the welcome guys and thanks for the quick replies! I'll try with a different clear coat.

Thanks again!

The Pledge sold in the US is a much different product than Future, but I don't have a clue about the Australian product. Future is an acrylic for sure. If you're using the kit decals, they may well be the problem, because Academy decals are well known for having problems.

Jaybee,

First of all, welcome to the forum Now I am not sure Pledge is a good alternative to Future You might have to apply a good clear acrylic (shiney) prior to decaling. The Micro stuff might have had a chemical reaction with the Pledge. I did notice that Future is an acrylic base product This is my best guess

Richard